Tandy Tech - User contributions [en]

Model 100 Manuals

2026-08-11T22:45:59Z

Bkw:

:[https://archive.org/download/trs-80-model-100-portable-computer-owners-manual/TRS-80_Model_100_Portable_Computer%20%28optimized%29.pdf TRS-80 Model-100 Owner's Manual] (600dpi, optimized, clickable/searchable index, 60M) 
:([https://archive.org/details/trs-80-model-100-portable-computer-owners-manual/TRS-80_Model_100_Portable_Computer/ raw 600dpi greyscale scan, 2.4G])

:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100qr.pdf
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100ServiceManual.pdf
:https://archive.org/details/TandyM100ServiceManual (higher quality scan, download the actual pdf to get the full quality, but the schematics are still blurry even though the rest is good.)
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_Main_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|Main PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_LCD_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|LCD PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:M100-layout.png|PCB layers overlaid]]
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100TechReference.pdf

:https://archive.org/details/Model100RomFunctions/
:https://archive.org/details/Model_100_Basic_Language_Lab_1983_Tandy/
:https://archive.org/details/ProgrammingTipsPeeksAndPokesForTheTandyPortableComputers/
:https://archive.org/details/HiddenPowersOfTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/InsideTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/secrets-of-rom-revealed

Other even more valuable info:
:John R. Hogerhuis: "The best reference on file management is the NEC programmers reference."
::https://www.web8201.net/default.asp?content=tech.asp
::Specifically http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/pc8200_tech_notes.zip and http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/nec8201a_tech_ref.zip

Model 100 Manuals

2026-08-11T22:34:05Z

Bkw:

:[https://archive.org/download/trs-80-model-100-portable-computer-owners-manual/TRS-80_Model_100_Portable_Computer%20%28optimized%29.pdf TRS-80 Model-100 Owner's Manual] (600dpi, optimized, clickable/searchable index, 61M) 
:([https://archive.org/details/trs-80-model-100-portable-computer-owners-manual/TRS-80_Model_100_Portable_Computer/ raw 600dpi greyscale scan, 2.4G])

:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100qr.pdf
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100ServiceManual.pdf
:https://archive.org/details/TandyM100ServiceManual (higher quality scan, download the actual pdf to get the full quality, but the schematics are still blurry even though the rest is good.)
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_Main_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|Main PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_LCD_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|LCD PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:M100-layout.png|PCB layers overlaid]]
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100TechReference.pdf

:https://archive.org/details/Model100RomFunctions/
:https://archive.org/details/Model_100_Basic_Language_Lab_1983_Tandy/
:https://archive.org/details/ProgrammingTipsPeeksAndPokesForTheTandyPortableComputers/
:https://archive.org/details/HiddenPowersOfTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/InsideTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/secrets-of-rom-revealed

Other even more valuable info:
:John R. Hogerhuis: "The best reference on file management is the NEC programmers reference."
::https://www.web8201.net/default.asp?content=tech.asp
::Specifically http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/pc8200_tech_notes.zip and http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/nec8201a_tech_ref.zip

Model 100 Manuals

2026-08-11T22:10:48Z

Bkw:

[[file:TRS-80_Model_100_Portable_Computer.pdf TRS-80 Model-100 Owner's Manual]] high quality scan with clickable/searchable index

:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100qr.pdf
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100ServiceManual.pdf
:https://archive.org/details/TandyM100ServiceManual (higher quality scan, download the actual pdf to get the full quality, but the schematics are still blurry even though the rest is good.)
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_Main_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|Main PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_LCD_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|LCD PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:M100-layout.png|PCB layers overlaid]]
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100TechReference.pdf

:https://archive.org/details/Model100RomFunctions/
:https://archive.org/details/Model_100_Basic_Language_Lab_1983_Tandy/
:https://archive.org/details/ProgrammingTipsPeeksAndPokesForTheTandyPortableComputers/
:https://archive.org/details/HiddenPowersOfTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/InsideTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/secrets-of-rom-revealed

Other even more valuable info:
:John R. Hogerhuis: "The best reference on file management is the NEC programmers reference."
::https://www.web8201.net/default.asp?content=tech.asp
::Specifically http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/pc8200_tech_notes.zip and http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/nec8201a_tech_ref.zip

Model 100 Manuals

2026-08-11T22:10:30Z

Bkw:

[file:TRS-80_Model_100_Portable_Computer.pdf TRS-80 Model-100 Owner's Manual] high quality scan with clickable/searchable index

:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100qr.pdf
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100ServiceManual.pdf
:https://archive.org/details/TandyM100ServiceManual (higher quality scan, download the actual pdf to get the full quality, but the schematics are still blurry even though the rest is good.)
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_Main_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|Main PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:TRS-80_Model_100_LCD_PCB_Schematic_(from_Tech_Ref_Manual).tif|LCD PCB Schematic]]
:[[Media:M100-layout.png|PCB layers overlaid]]
:https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/m100TechReference.pdf

:https://archive.org/details/Model100RomFunctions/
:https://archive.org/details/Model_100_Basic_Language_Lab_1983_Tandy/
:https://archive.org/details/ProgrammingTipsPeeksAndPokesForTheTandyPortableComputers/
:https://archive.org/details/HiddenPowersOfTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/InsideTheTrs80Model100
:https://archive.org/details/secrets-of-rom-revealed

Other even more valuable info:
:John R. Hogerhuis: "The best reference on file management is the NEC programmers reference."
::https://www.web8201.net/default.asp?content=tech.asp
::Specifically http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/pc8200_tech_notes.zip and http://www.web8201.net/Files/LIBRARY_web8201/nec8201a_tech_ref.zip

Model 600

2026-08-02T04:22:23Z

Bkw: /* RAM */

[[File:T600-yt.jpg|link=http://youtu.be/UEkfFS5SsIg]]

==Intro==
First off, just for context and perspective... understand that the Model 600 was frankly a terrible machine, and it was born and died quickly. One estimate is that only 20,000 were ever made. Made, not sold. There is very little 3rd party software, documents, accessories, or knowledge about it.

Most of what little info and software there is, is contained in the '''Lib-11-TANDY600''' directory in the [https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-11-TANDY600 M100SIG archive] ([https://archive.org/details/M100SIG backup copy]).

See also the venerable [http://xartica.com/DigitalDinos/Pages/Information/docT600FAQ30.html Tandy 600 faq]. It's a bit out of date, but has been around a long time and is indeed a good run down of most FAQs.



==Manuals==
:[https://archive.org/details/Model_600_Owners_Manual_1985_Microsoft Model 600 Owners Manual]
:[https://archive.org/details/Tandy600HandheldBASICReferenceManual Tandy 600 Handheld BASIC Reference Manual]
:[https://archive.org/details/Developing_Applications_with_Microsoft_Works_for_Model_600_19xx_Tandy Developing Applications with Microsoft Works for Model 600]
:[https://archive.org/details/Microsoft_Works_Utility_Disk_for_Model_600_1986_Tandy Microsoft Works Utility Disk for Model 600]
:[[File:TANDY 600 26-3901 Service Manual.pdf]] 
:[[File:TANDY 600 26-3901 Programmers Reference and BIOS Specification.pdf]] 
 
:[[File:Tandy_Technical_Bulletin_-_Model_600_(1986)(Tandy)_Bulletins_001-002.pdf]]

==Software==
See the '''Lib-11-TANDY600''' directory in the [https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-11-TANDY600 M100SIG archive]

[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhSFhFZ29TSEZkTUk?resourcekey=0-tm_4nTwGRy66nxrI3SETHw&usp=sharing Copies of the Utility Disk files and the RAM and ROM versions of BASIC]

The machine language development kit is lost. 
Once upon a time it was available on the web, in a collection put up by Roger Merchberger, 
but that is all gone now and even archive.org doesn't have a copy: 
:https://www.mail-archive.com/m100@lists.bitchin100.com/msg15409.html
:http://ana-3.lcs.mit.edu/~jnc/cctalk/1998-November/0437.html
:https://web.archive.org/web/20050418200331/http://www.30below.com/~zmerch/classics/Tandy600/ 1999-2005 -> ftp://ftp.30below.com/Tandy600/
:https://web.archive.org/web/19991004190900/http://www.nyx.net/~lekollar/t600/ 1997-1999 -> ftp://ftp.northernway.net/Tandy600/

Thomas McLaren who publishes http://xartica.com/DigitalDinos/Pages/Information/docT600FAQ30.html has a copy, but will not share it.

==Hardware==
===Serial cable===
[[Model_T_Serial_Cable]]

===Parallel cable===
[[Model_T_Parallel_Cable]]

===Floppy Disks===
3.5 inch, DSDD / 2SDD, aka Double Density, aka "720K" floppies

Don't use 1.44M floppies. Or rather, don't depend on them. They won't hurt the drive, the data will just not be reliable due to the incorrect match between the drive read/write head signal strength and the magnetic media on the disk.

If you have random old unmarked disks, you can identify the correct ones by the square holes in the corners of the disk. 720K disks only have one hole in one corner.

===Main Battery===
4xD-cell 4.8V, NiCD or NiMH 
http://www.maxxpacks.com/product_info.php?products_id=2039

Select the universal connector. It says "male" in it's description, but it's actually female. The pins are the correct size and spacing and it plugs right onto the 3 pins on the motherboard perfectly, although you have to either release the pins from the connector and reverse the positions of the red and black wires, or just plug the connector onto the motherboard connector off-center, so that the black wire goes to the center pin and the red wire goes to the pin closest to the back of the machine, and an empty position hangs off the side.

Or you can write in the note field during checkout: "3 pin female Molex connector, Pin 1 red, center black, 6 inch wire" and they will install a keyed connector that you can't plug in backwards.

Be careful how the wire is routed so that the video cable doesn't pull on it when the screen is opened. While you have the machine open, open and close the screen so you can see how the cables get pulled when the screen is opened.

This NiMH battery has greater capacity than the original NiCD battery, and can be safely charged by the original NiCD charging circuit.

Many local R/C hobby shops or BatteriesPlus shops will make up a pack like this on demand too. Just show them the old pack and they make a new one just like it easy.

DO NOT leave the wall power plugged in for more than 24 hours! The charging circuit is not "smart" like modern battery charging circuits. It will over-charge and damage the batteries if left plugged in for several days.

You can also simply remove the main battery. The machine runs fine without it. Without the main battery installed, then it would be ok to leave the wall power connected all the time.

===Memory Battery===
3.6V NiMH or NiCD 
3/v80h 2-pin 
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=3%2Fv80h+2+pin

Current NiMH batteries have greater capacity (80mah) than the original NiCD battery (50mah), and may be safely charged by the NiCD charging circuit.

===RAM===

Model 600 comes with 32K of ram built-in, and 1 or 2 96K modules can be added.

Here are a few different versions of ram expansion you can build yourself: 
https://github.com/bkw777/TANDY_600_RAM

===Option ROMs===
The option rom pinout is just plain 27C256 DIP28, so it's simple to copy/modify/create option roms.

There were only 2 option roms ever produced.

*[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhVXRVTHRBanh5WTQ?resourcekey=0-5R7lAHSeoWiUJ1_9-9URzw Multiplan] (the ICN5_S99(PLAN).rom file)
*[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16M1QHbd4WuJuhUGcG06JTVW2YfO-WpWr BASIC]

The machine shipped with Multiplan by default. Few ever got the BASIC rom, but you mostly don't need it at least today, because there is a disk/ram version of BASIC which you can download, install, and run from ram. It consumes almost 40k of ram, while the option rom version consumes no ram, but then again, today we also have a way to make new ram modules so everyone can max out their machine to 224k, and using the ram version means you don't have to remove your Multiplan rom in order to get BASIC.

So there is no collection of rom images that you can burn to chips and use like Model 100/102 has. But you could replace a missing or damaged rom, or copy your Multiplan or BASIC rom to a new, re-writeable chip to hack on it.

You can read the original roms (all of them, not just the option rom) by just reading them in an eprom programmer as if they were 27C256. And you can make a new rom by just writing to a normal 27C256, and sticking it in a Molex chip carrier. That means it's easy to hack on the system roms.

All you need is:
* eprom programmer - Suggestion: TL866 (TL866CS or TL866A doesn't matter) There is free software for Windows, Linux, and OSX.
* One or more 27C256 eprom in DIP28 package. Either one-time-programmable, or UV erasable.
* If UV erasable, then you also need a UV eprom eraser. The $15 ones on ebay work fine.
* Molex chip carrier
::Original carrier manufacturers and part numbers for reference: 
:::Molex 50-39-5288 (78802-10) 
:::EBY 9775-548-28 
::3D-printed chip carrier: 
:::http://shpws.me/SGPu 
* (optional, recommended) Either a Molex 78805 socket, or DIP-28 test clip
::This is so you don't have to remove the chip from the carrier to re-program it. Once the chip is installed on a carrier, You can only un-bend the pins once or twice before they break off. Put the empty Molex socket in the ZIF socket in the eprom programmer, or clip the test-clip onto the chip, with ribbon cables to the programer. 
::Socket part numbers to search for: Molex 15-41-3281 (A78805-0418) or 15-29-9282 (A78805-0518).

I happen to have chanced into a modest lot of carriers and sockets for cheap, so if you want one, or a few, email Brian White b.kenyon.w@gmail.com , and I'll give you a few free, just pay the shipping.

Alternatively, see [[Meeprom]] for a fancier solution to making a re-rwitable option rom that fits in the Molex socket, and does not need an original Molex socket to connect to a programmer, nor a UV eraser.

TODO: rom binary format gleaned from the developers manuals and the multiplan rom. 
TODO: minipro command lines, esp for forcing a read of the mask roms without chip id. 
See dissecting rom directory above

==Operation==
===Cold Start===
Hold BKSP + ALT + LABEL 
while holding those, press and release POWER.

You must do this on first power-up after the memory battery has been dead or when the memory power switch has been turned off or after installing/removing ram modules.

This wipes all memory.

===Warm Start===
SHIFT + BREAK + POWER

Resets any running software, but does not wipe memory.

===Xmodem Procedure / Installing BASIC===
How to get a file from the internet onto the Model 600 using a serial cable. 
This example will use BASIC.!55 (RAM version of BASIC) as the file to transfer. 
This is also documented in the Owner's Manual in the TELCOM section.

Get a usb-serial adapter and the special serial cable shown above, or equivalent.

Download files from the Software link above, for instance BASIC.!55 the RAM version of BASIC, or anything from the Model 600 directory of the M100SIG archive.

On the modern pc, install a serial comm program that has xmodem file transfer. Examples (all free): 
Windows: TeraTerm 
Linux: minicom and lrzsz 
OSX: minicom and lrzsz 

On the modern machine, start the comm program, select the com port and set the serial settings to 9600 8n1 xon/xoff (aka software flow control).

(The TELCOM app in the 600 allows setting the speed up to 19200, but file transfers don't actually work at that speed.)

On the 600, run TELCOM 
Press M [ Modify] 
[TAB] to move between fields 
name: (leave empty) 
baud: 9600 
stop: 1 
word: 8 
xon/xoff: (Yes) 
[ENTER] to save and go back to the menu

Press C [Connect] 
[TAB] twice 
using modem: No 
[ENTER]

Now it should say ONLINE on the bottom.

Press [Shift]+[Esc] to pull up the telcom menu again without going offline 
T [Transfer] 
R [Receive] 
RECEIVE to: BASIC.!55 
[TAB] 
Protocol: (Xmodem) (you have to press X to select Xmodem) 
[ENTER] 

The Model 600 is now waiting to receive a file. 
Now back on the modern machine: 
In the comm program, send a file using xmodem, and select BASIC.!55 that you downloaded previously. It takes a few minutes to transfer. Despite the serial port settings being set to 9600baud, the actual speed goes about the same as 600baud. Old forum posts suggest it is slow firmware routines in the Model 600. 

When it's done:

On the 600: 
[Esc] 
D [Disconnect] 
Y confirm 
[CTRL]+[F10] 

Now your should see a new entry, BASIC, in the system manager on the left in the middle. 
You now have BASIC installed on your 600!

NOTES 
The maximum single file size you can transfer is 65535 bytes. That is 64K minus one byte. 
TELCOM will allow you to transfer up to a full 64K (65536 bytes) before aborting, but if you transfer a full 64K file to the 600, and back, the final byte will be changed from whatever it was to 0x20 (space).

===Saving files to disk===
This is also documented in the Owner's Manual.

Download the files in the Utility Disk directory, or at the very least FORMAT.!60, to your local PC.

Use the xmodem procedure above to copy all the Utility Disk files, or at least FORMAT.!60 , to the model 600.

Insert a 3.5" DSDD / 2SDD (double density, aka 720K) disk. NOT a 1.44M disk. 
(Actually, the drive is single-sided. Single-sided 3.5" disks are rare but they do exist. If you actually have any single-sided 3.5" disks, this (and TPDD1 & TPDD2) is one of the few good uses for them.)

Run FORMAT. 

Press [CTRL]+[F10] to get back to the system manager.

C [Copy]

COPY file: (arrow down to BASIC, it will show as "BASIC.!55" in this field)

[TAB]

to: A: (you type "A:" in this field)

[ENTER]

Now BASIC.!55 has been copied to a disk. 
If you wipe the memory on the 600, you can reinstall BASIC by copying from the disk without needing xmodem and a PC any more.

==Utility Disk==
The model 600 shipped with a floppy disk called '''Tandy Model 600 Utility Disk''' 
This is just an ordinary disk with the following 5 files on it:

FORMAT.!60
INSTALL.!70
DISKCOPY.!90
PRINTER.DVR
DBCALLS.LIB

No special boot sectors or anything like that. 
To re-create a new Utility Disk, just:

Download all the files from the Utility Disk directory from the Software section above. 

Copy each one to the 600 using the xmodem procedure above. 

Copy each one to a disk using the copy to disk procedure above. 

Then just label the disk, and write-protect it by opening the door in the little square hole in the corner of the disk.

The original disk only had exactly these 5 files on it, but today you might as well put BASIC.!55 on there too.

There is a nice reproduction disk label here: https://github.com/bkw777/disk_labels

CGP-115

2026-08-01T01:39:57Z

Bkw: /* ALPS Plotter Engine */

[[File:Cgp115.jpg|thumb]]
=Manuals=
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115_operation_manual Operation Manual]
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115-service-manual Service Manual]

=ALPS Plotter Engine=
The Tandy CGP-115 is based on the same ALPS DPG-1302 plotter engine as several other plotters.

Plotter Models:
:'''ALPS DPG-1302'''
:Aquarius 4-COLOR PRINTER
:Astron MCP-40X
:Atari 1020
 
:Canon X-710
:Casio FA-10
:Casio FA-11
:Commodore 1520
:Convergent Microprinter WP-100
:Mattel Aquarius 4615
:MCP-40 ([http://www.pc-1500.info/2014/11/21/frank-c-odds-favorite-printer-sharp-pc-1500/ not the Oric one])
:Olivetti PL 10
:Oric MCP-40
:Sega SP-400
:Sharp CE-1600P
:Sharp MZ-1P01
:Sharp MZ-1P16
:Sharp PC-2500
:Silver Reed EB50
:Tandy CGP-115
:Texas Instruments HX-1000
:Vtech Laser PP-40I

There is another version of the same ALPS engine that just takes narrower paper, but is otherwise the same, using the same pens and pinion gears.
:Sharp CE-150
:Tandy 26-3605
:Mitutoyo DP-2
:Mitutoyo DP-3

And another version that takes wider paper.
:Brother BP-30
:Panasonic RK-P400
:Sharp CE-515P
:Sharp CE-516P
:Silver Reed EB50
:Sony PRN-C41

=Pens=
[[File:EvidENTpens.jpg|100px|frameless|right]]

A German medical supplies company is manufacturing new pens designed for this plotter mechanism.

They're expensive, especially with the shipping, but, they're new, and you can refill them practically forever for pennies per refill.

https://www.evident-shop.de/en/search?sSearch=stifte

=Gears=
The pinion/spindle gears on the X and Y motors are made of Nylon, which has shrunk over time, and essentially all of these gears are split by now, or soon will be.

===Specs===
:13 tooth
:0.25 modulus
:1.5mm bore
:4.5mm length

These are the specs to re-create the gear from scratch. For example the FreeCAD model below was made by just plugging those values into the involute gear plugin in FreeCAD.

===Sources===


The original gears are nylon. You can't get those any more, but you can get two other forms of new gears.

Jeff Birt of the "Hey Birt!" Youtube channel has commissioned some machined brass gears: https://www.soigeneris.com/alps-printer-plotter-mechanism-pinion-gears

You can also get 3d-printed gears: http://shpws.me/Si9K

CAD model source for the 3d-printed gears: https://github.com/bkw777/ALPS_plotter_gears



To install brass gears, I used a small hobby/electronics table-top vise with plastic jaws (Panavise 301) to press the gears onto the motor shafts without deforming the end of the shaft. The rear end of the shaft is very close to the bearing and so you want to be extra careful to avoid even a tiny impreceptible damage to the shape of the shaft. You can remove a thin metal sheet that covers the motors on the back, and that exposes the motors enough to get the corners of the vise jaws on both ends of the motor shaft without having to remove the motors. The jaws on that model of vise are plastic, so they don't harm the motor shaft on the back of the motors. If you use a steel jaw vice, be sure to protect the rear motor shaft from direct metal to metal contact with the vice jaw, to prevent the vise jaw from deforming the motor shaft.

=Paper=

===Specs===
:plain bond
:4.5" wide
:7/16" core
:up to 3" diameter
:160 feet

Original Radio Shack item was 180 feet but that's not a common size. The Original paper may have been a thinner bond too. 160 feet of plain bond does fit in the machine with room to spare. Often the selling sites will list the roll diameter which removes all guessing.

Typical search term: "4.5" bond roll"

http://www.itplanet.com/parts/Star__87999850.htm

https://www.cibowares.com/4-5-x-160-white-bond-1-ply-register-roll-package-of-20/

http://www.sunshinesupport.com/prod/receipt-paper-rolls/1-ply-45-inch-x-165-paper-25-rolls-45165.htm

=Refilling Pens=

The new pens from the German medical supplies company are pretty expensive considering that they are so small and don’t last very long.

The new pens can be refilled fairly easily with insulin syringes available from local drug stores. Example:
:Walgreens item 677232
:10-pack, 29 gauge, 0.3mL
:super thin syringes for insulin

When looking for alternative inks, you need to know that the original ink is water-based. 
You want to use an ink that is water-based, and uses dye not pigment. In other words, not India ink! That has pigments made of particulates like a paint. That clogs up the wick fibers and the ball and wrecks the pen. You need inks that are purely liquid, which means dyes not pigments. 
The simplest way to identify a good ink is to search for water-based drafting/plotter pen ink.

These Koh-I-Noor/Chartpak model numbers are perfect:
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLA 3080-F-BLA] black
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLU 3080-F-BLU] blue
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-RED 3080-F-RED] red
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-GRE 3080-F-GRE] green

Fill a syringe to about the 20 mark. (0.2ml)

Around the tip of the pen (the new plastic german ones) there are 3 vent holes.
Insert the syringe into one of those. Angle towards the center a little to minimize how much the vent passage gets mushed open by the needle.

Slowly, giving the ink time to soak into the fiber filler inside, push the plunger from about 20 to about 10. When you see ink in the other vent holes, you’ve actually gone slightly too far, or too fast.

Put the printer in 80 column mode ( jumper 2 = off ) and LLIST a basic program until the writing looks clean. It may splatter a little at first.

Clean up with a calligraphy pen cleaning solution, like:
:http://artid.com/members/calligraphy/blog/post/1529-pen-and-brush-cleaner-recipe
or Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze.

It works to restore old dried pens too if you soak the disassembled parts in a jar for a day or so. Most original (30 year old) pens are not recoverable, but some are.

I have no idea how many times a pen can be refilled before the ball point wears out, but even once is worth it, considering how expensive they are and how quickly they run out. I have only refilled each color about twice so far.

For the original steel barrel pens: 
You have to completely disassemble the pens and soak the parts in the cleaning solution for a few hours, or even days. 
If the metal ball point still does not roll or flow, try passing the tip into a flame briefly to free up the ball from being stuck. This is just for METAL tips! I don't know if it works by melting the dried ink or by expanding the metal around the ball, but it works. It only takes a brief exposure, less than a second. Just pass it above a flame back and forth once or twice, don't hold it in place. This breaks the ball free and allows the ball to roll again, and the ink to flow again. 
You have to inject ink with the pen tip off. You can’t go in through a vent hole like you can for the new plastic pens. 
All in all, I’ve generally had less than 50% success rate refilling and reviving old pens. Even after completely disassembling and cleaning all parts and freeing the stuck ball points. But occasionally it does work, and a few pens are better than no pens.

=Pen/Ink Storage=
Store pens and ink in something that is more vapor-proof than oridinary plastic bags or boxes. You want metal or glass, like glass jars with metal lids or foil bags with actual aluminum foil not merely a silvery appearance.

The plastic ink bottles and pen bodies will lose both alcohol and water right through the plastic over time. If they are stored in ordinary plastic bags or containers, even with seals, the vapor pases right through that plastic over time the same way. So you want to store them inside something that will actually trap the vapor inside over long periods, which slows down the loss of volotiles from the ink. Metal in particular also protects the dye from UV.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L80T2O/

This item comes with dessicant packs. Do '''NOT''' include the dessicant packs! The whole point is to keep the moisture trapped IN the bag.

=Pics / Video=

https://goo.gl/photos/8HNKcnyMKBJupYnq9

=Other=
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhSUpfQVdWc2VrdTA?resourcekey=0-kYFofyxhQLoKkG_phO0KHg&usp=sharing

==M100SIG Archive==
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/BIORTH.CGP 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-03-TELCOM/RLECGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/CGP115.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/BCODE2.BAS 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-05-GAMES/WRDSCH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/TP-10.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GRFX.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/OLIM10.DIF 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/PRTCGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/APLOT.115 

==TANDY faxback==

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4000.htm 4000 - Selecting a Printer Cable] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4001.htm 4001 - Care and Maintenance] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4002.htm 4002 - Using Control Codes From BASIC] 
[http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05632.txt 5632 - Catalog Listing] 


[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5633.htm 5633 - Cables] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5634.htm 5634 - Control Codes] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5635.htm 5635 - Features] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5636.htm 5636 - Paper Loading] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5637.htm 5637 - Pen Installation] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5638.htm 5638 - Pinouts] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5639.htm 5639 - Self-Test] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5640.htm 5640 - Dip Switches] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5641.htm 5641 - Specifications]

CGP-115

2026-08-01T01:29:49Z

Bkw:

[[File:Cgp115.jpg|thumb]]
=Manuals=
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115_operation_manual Operation Manual]
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115-service-manual Service Manual]

=ALPS Plotter Engine=
The Tandy CGP-115 is based on the same ALPS DPG-1302 plotter engine as several other plotters.

Plotter Models:
:'''ALPS DPG-1302'''
:Aquarius 4-COLOR PRINTER
:Astron MCP-40X
:Atari 1020
 
:Canon X-710
:Casio FA-10
:Casio FA-11
:Commodore 1520
:Convergent Microprinter WP-100
:Mattel Aquarius 4615
:MCP-40 ([http://www.pc-1500.info/2014/11/21/frank-c-odds-favorite-printer-sharp-pc-1500/ not the Oric one])
:Olivetti PL 10
:Oric MCP-40
:Sega SP-400
:Sharp CE-1600P
:Sharp MZ-1P01
:Sharp MZ-1P16
:Sharp PC-2500
:Silver Reed EB50
:Tandy CGP-115
:Texas Instruments HX-1000
:Vtech Laser PP-40I

There is another version of the same ALPS engine that just takes narrower paper, but is otherwise the same, using the same pens and pinion gears.
:Sharp CE-150
:Tandy 26-3605
:Mitutoyo DP-2
:Mitutoyo DP-3

And another version that takes wider paper.
:Brother BP-30
:Panasonic RK-P400
:Sharp CE-515P
:Sharp CE-516P
:Sony PRN-C41

=Pens=
[[File:EvidENTpens.jpg|100px|frameless|right]]

A German medical supplies company is manufacturing new pens designed for this plotter mechanism.

They're expensive, especially with the shipping, but, they're new, and you can refill them practically forever for pennies per refill.

https://www.evident-shop.de/en/search?sSearch=stifte

=Gears=
The pinion/spindle gears on the X and Y motors are made of Nylon, which has shrunk over time, and essentially all of these gears are split by now, or soon will be.

===Specs===
:13 tooth
:0.25 modulus
:1.5mm bore
:4.5mm length

These are the specs to re-create the gear from scratch. For example the FreeCAD model below was made by just plugging those values into the involute gear plugin in FreeCAD.

===Sources===


The original gears are nylon. You can't get those any more, but you can get two other forms of new gears.

Jeff Birt of the "Hey Birt!" Youtube channel has commissioned some machined brass gears: https://www.soigeneris.com/alps-printer-plotter-mechanism-pinion-gears

You can also get 3d-printed gears: http://shpws.me/Si9K

CAD model source for the 3d-printed gears: https://github.com/bkw777/ALPS_plotter_gears



To install brass gears, I used a small hobby/electronics table-top vise with plastic jaws (Panavise 301) to press the gears onto the motor shafts without deforming the end of the shaft. The rear end of the shaft is very close to the bearing and so you want to be extra careful to avoid even a tiny impreceptible damage to the shape of the shaft. You can remove a thin metal sheet that covers the motors on the back, and that exposes the motors enough to get the corners of the vise jaws on both ends of the motor shaft without having to remove the motors. The jaws on that model of vise are plastic, so they don't harm the motor shaft on the back of the motors. If you use a steel jaw vice, be sure to protect the rear motor shaft from direct metal to metal contact with the vice jaw, to prevent the vise jaw from deforming the motor shaft.

=Paper=

===Specs===
:plain bond
:4.5" wide
:7/16" core
:up to 3" diameter
:160 feet

Original Radio Shack item was 180 feet but that's not a common size. The Original paper may have been a thinner bond too. 160 feet of plain bond does fit in the machine with room to spare. Often the selling sites will list the roll diameter which removes all guessing.

Typical search term: "4.5" bond roll"

http://www.itplanet.com/parts/Star__87999850.htm

https://www.cibowares.com/4-5-x-160-white-bond-1-ply-register-roll-package-of-20/

http://www.sunshinesupport.com/prod/receipt-paper-rolls/1-ply-45-inch-x-165-paper-25-rolls-45165.htm

=Refilling Pens=

The new pens from the German medical supplies company are pretty expensive considering that they are so small and don’t last very long.

The new pens can be refilled fairly easily with insulin syringes available from local drug stores. Example:
:Walgreens item 677232
:10-pack, 29 gauge, 0.3mL
:super thin syringes for insulin

When looking for alternative inks, you need to know that the original ink is water-based. 
You want to use an ink that is water-based, and uses dye not pigment. In other words, not India ink! That has pigments made of particulates like a paint. That clogs up the wick fibers and the ball and wrecks the pen. You need inks that are purely liquid, which means dyes not pigments. 
The simplest way to identify a good ink is to search for water-based drafting/plotter pen ink.

These Koh-I-Noor/Chartpak model numbers are perfect:
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLA 3080-F-BLA] black
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLU 3080-F-BLU] blue
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-RED 3080-F-RED] red
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-GRE 3080-F-GRE] green

Fill a syringe to about the 20 mark. (0.2ml)

Around the tip of the pen (the new plastic german ones) there are 3 vent holes.
Insert the syringe into one of those. Angle towards the center a little to minimize how much the vent passage gets mushed open by the needle.

Slowly, giving the ink time to soak into the fiber filler inside, push the plunger from about 20 to about 10. When you see ink in the other vent holes, you’ve actually gone slightly too far, or too fast.

Put the printer in 80 column mode ( jumper 2 = off ) and LLIST a basic program until the writing looks clean. It may splatter a little at first.

Clean up with a calligraphy pen cleaning solution, like:
:http://artid.com/members/calligraphy/blog/post/1529-pen-and-brush-cleaner-recipe
or Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze.

It works to restore old dried pens too if you soak the disassembled parts in a jar for a day or so. Most original (30 year old) pens are not recoverable, but some are.

I have no idea how many times a pen can be refilled before the ball point wears out, but even once is worth it, considering how expensive they are and how quickly they run out. I have only refilled each color about twice so far.

For the original steel barrel pens: 
You have to completely disassemble the pens and soak the parts in the cleaning solution for a few hours, or even days. 
If the metal ball point still does not roll or flow, try passing the tip into a flame briefly to free up the ball from being stuck. This is just for METAL tips! I don't know if it works by melting the dried ink or by expanding the metal around the ball, but it works. It only takes a brief exposure, less than a second. Just pass it above a flame back and forth once or twice, don't hold it in place. This breaks the ball free and allows the ball to roll again, and the ink to flow again. 
You have to inject ink with the pen tip off. You can’t go in through a vent hole like you can for the new plastic pens. 
All in all, I’ve generally had less than 50% success rate refilling and reviving old pens. Even after completely disassembling and cleaning all parts and freeing the stuck ball points. But occasionally it does work, and a few pens are better than no pens.

=Pen/Ink Storage=
Store pens and ink in something that is more vapor-proof than oridinary plastic bags or boxes. You want metal or glass, like glass jars with metal lids or foil bags with actual aluminum foil not merely a silvery appearance.

The plastic ink bottles and pen bodies will lose both alcohol and water right through the plastic over time. If they are stored in ordinary plastic bags or containers, even with seals, the vapor pases right through that plastic over time the same way. So you want to store them inside something that will actually trap the vapor inside over long periods, which slows down the loss of volotiles from the ink. Metal in particular also protects the dye from UV.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L80T2O/

This item comes with dessicant packs. Do '''NOT''' include the dessicant packs! The whole point is to keep the moisture trapped IN the bag.

=Pics / Video=

https://goo.gl/photos/8HNKcnyMKBJupYnq9

=Other=
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhSUpfQVdWc2VrdTA?resourcekey=0-kYFofyxhQLoKkG_phO0KHg&usp=sharing

==M100SIG Archive==
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/BIORTH.CGP 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-03-TELCOM/RLECGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/CGP115.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/BCODE2.BAS 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-05-GAMES/WRDSCH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/TP-10.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GRFX.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/OLIM10.DIF 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/PRTCGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/APLOT.115 

==TANDY faxback==

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4000.htm 4000 - Selecting a Printer Cable] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4001.htm 4001 - Care and Maintenance] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4002.htm 4002 - Using Control Codes From BASIC] 
[http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05632.txt 5632 - Catalog Listing] 


[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5633.htm 5633 - Cables] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5634.htm 5634 - Control Codes] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5635.htm 5635 - Features] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5636.htm 5636 - Paper Loading] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5637.htm 5637 - Pen Installation] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5638.htm 5638 - Pinouts] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5639.htm 5639 - Self-Test] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5640.htm 5640 - Dip Switches] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5641.htm 5641 - Specifications]

CGP-115

2026-08-01T01:27:37Z

Bkw: /* ALPS Plotter Engine */

[[File:Cgp115.jpg|thumb]]
=Manuals=
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115_operation_manual Operation Manual]
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115-service-manual Service Manual]

=ALPS Plotter Engine=
The Tandy CGP-115 is based on the same ALPS DPG-1302 plotter engine as several other plotters.

Plotter Models:
:'''ALPS DPG-1302'''
:Aquarius 4-COLOR PRINTER
:Astron MCP-40X
:Atari 1020
 
:Canon X-710
:Casio FA-10
:Casio FA-11
:Commodore 1520
:Convergent Microprinter WP-100
:Mattel Aquarius 4615
:MCP-40 ([http://www.pc-1500.info/2014/11/21/frank-c-odds-favorite-printer-sharp-pc-1500/ not the Oric one])
:Olivetti PL 10
:Oric MCP-40
:Sega SP-400
:Sharp CE-1600P
:Sharp MZ-1P01
:Sharp MZ-1P16
:Sharp PC-2500
:Silver Reed EB50
:Tandy CGP-115
:Texas Instruments HX-1000
:Vtech Laser PP-40I

There is another version of the same ALPS engine that just takes narrower paper, but is otherwise the same, using the same pens and pinion gears.
:Sharp CE-150
:Tandy 26-3605
:Mitutoyo DP-2
:Mitutoyo DP-3

And another version that takes wider paper.
:Brother Type-a-Graph BP-30 (takes the same pens but might not be the Alps engine)
:Panasonic Penwriter RK-P400
:Sharp CE-515P
:Sharp CE-516P
:Sony PRN-C41

=Pens=
[[File:EvidENTpens.jpg|100px|frameless|right]]

A German medical supplies company is manufacturing new pens designed for this plotter mechanism.

They're expensive, especially with the shipping, but, they're new, and you can refill them practically forever for pennies per refill.

https://www.evident-shop.de/en/search?sSearch=stifte

=Gears=
The pinion/spindle gears on the X and Y motors are made of Nylon, which has shrunk over time, and essentially all of these gears are split by now, or soon will be.

===Specs===
:13 tooth
:0.25 modulus
:1.5mm bore
:4.5mm length

These are the specs to re-create the gear from scratch. For example the FreeCAD model below was made by just plugging those values into the involute gear plugin in FreeCAD.

===Sources===


The original gears are nylon. You can't get those any more, but you can get two other forms of new gears.

Jeff Birt of the "Hey Birt!" Youtube channel has commissioned some machined brass gears: https://www.soigeneris.com/alps-printer-plotter-mechanism-pinion-gears

You can also get 3d-printed gears: http://shpws.me/Si9K

CAD model source for the 3d-printed gears: https://github.com/bkw777/ALPS_plotter_gears



To install brass gears, I used a small hobby/electronics table-top vise with plastic jaws (Panavise 301) to press the gears onto the motor shafts without deforming the end of the shaft. The rear end of the shaft is very close to the bearing and so you want to be extra careful to avoid even a tiny impreceptible damage to the shape of the shaft. You can remove a thin metal sheet that covers the motors on the back, and that exposes the motors enough to get the corners of the vise jaws on both ends of the motor shaft without having to remove the motors. The jaws on that model of vise are plastic, so they don't harm the motor shaft on the back of the motors. If you use a steel jaw vice, be sure to protect the rear motor shaft from direct metal to metal contact with the vice jaw, to prevent the vise jaw from deforming the motor shaft.

=Paper=

===Specs===
:plain bond
:4.5" wide
:7/16" core
:up to 3" diameter
:160 feet

Original Radio Shack item was 180 feet but that's not a common size. The Original paper may have been a thinner bond too. 160 feet of plain bond does fit in the machine with room to spare. Often the selling sites will list the roll diameter which removes all guessing.

Typical search term: "4.5" bond roll"

http://www.itplanet.com/parts/Star__87999850.htm

https://www.cibowares.com/4-5-x-160-white-bond-1-ply-register-roll-package-of-20/

http://www.sunshinesupport.com/prod/receipt-paper-rolls/1-ply-45-inch-x-165-paper-25-rolls-45165.htm

=Refilling Pens=

The new pens from the German medical supplies company are pretty expensive considering that they are so small and don’t last very long.

The new pens can be refilled fairly easily with insulin syringes available from local drug stores. Example:
:Walgreens item 677232
:10-pack, 29 gauge, 0.3mL
:super thin syringes for insulin

When looking for alternative inks, you need to know that the original ink is water-based. 
You want to use an ink that is water-based, and uses dye not pigment. In other words, not India ink! That has pigments made of particulates like a paint. That clogs up the wick fibers and the ball and wrecks the pen. You need inks that are purely liquid, which means dyes not pigments. 
The simplest way to identify a good ink is to search for water-based drafting/plotter pen ink.

These Koh-I-Noor/Chartpak model numbers are perfect:
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLA 3080-F-BLA] black
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLU 3080-F-BLU] blue
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-RED 3080-F-RED] red
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-GRE 3080-F-GRE] green

Fill a syringe to about the 20 mark. (0.2ml)

Around the tip of the pen (the new plastic german ones) there are 3 vent holes.
Insert the syringe into one of those. Angle towards the center a little to minimize how much the vent passage gets mushed open by the needle.

Slowly, giving the ink time to soak into the fiber filler inside, push the plunger from about 20 to about 10. When you see ink in the other vent holes, you’ve actually gone slightly too far, or too fast.

Put the printer in 80 column mode ( jumper 2 = off ) and LLIST a basic program until the writing looks clean. It may splatter a little at first.

Clean up with a calligraphy pen cleaning solution, like:
:http://artid.com/members/calligraphy/blog/post/1529-pen-and-brush-cleaner-recipe
or Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze.

It works to restore old dried pens too if you soak the disassembled parts in a jar for a day or so. Most original (30 year old) pens are not recoverable, but some are.

I have no idea how many times a pen can be refilled before the ball point wears out, but even once is worth it, considering how expensive they are and how quickly they run out. I have only refilled each color about twice so far.

For the original steel barrel pens: 
You have to completely disassemble the pens and soak the parts in the cleaning solution for a few hours, or even days. 
If the metal ball point still does not roll or flow, try passing the tip into a flame briefly to free up the ball from being stuck. This is just for METAL tips! I don't know if it works by melting the dried ink or by expanding the metal around the ball, but it works. It only takes a brief exposure, less than a second. Just pass it above a flame back and forth once or twice, don't hold it in place. This breaks the ball free and allows the ball to roll again, and the ink to flow again. 
You have to inject ink with the pen tip off. You can’t go in through a vent hole like you can for the new plastic pens. 
All in all, I’ve generally had less than 50% success rate refilling and reviving old pens. Even after completely disassembling and cleaning all parts and freeing the stuck ball points. But occasionally it does work, and a few pens are better than no pens.

=Pen/Ink Storage=
Store pens and ink in something that is more vapor-proof than oridinary plastic bags or boxes. You want metal or glass, like glass jars with metal lids or foil bags with actual aluminum foil not merely a silvery appearance.

The plastic ink bottles and pen bodies will lose both alcohol and water right through the plastic over time. If they are stored in ordinary plastic bags or containers, even with seals, the vapor pases right through that plastic over time the same way. So you want to store them inside something that will actually trap the vapor inside over long periods, which slows down the loss of volotiles from the ink. Metal in particular also protects the dye from UV.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L80T2O/

This item comes with dessicant packs. Do '''NOT''' include the dessicant packs! The whole point is to keep the moisture trapped IN the bag.

=Pics / Video=

https://goo.gl/photos/8HNKcnyMKBJupYnq9

=Other=
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhSUpfQVdWc2VrdTA?resourcekey=0-kYFofyxhQLoKkG_phO0KHg&usp=sharing

==M100SIG Archive==
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/BIORTH.CGP 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-03-TELCOM/RLECGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/CGP115.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/BCODE2.BAS 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-05-GAMES/WRDSCH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/TP-10.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GRFX.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/OLIM10.DIF 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/PRTCGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/APLOT.115 

==TANDY faxback==

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4000.htm 4000 - Selecting a Printer Cable] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4001.htm 4001 - Care and Maintenance] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4002.htm 4002 - Using Control Codes From BASIC] 
[http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05632.txt 5632 - Catalog Listing] 


[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5633.htm 5633 - Cables] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5634.htm 5634 - Control Codes] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5635.htm 5635 - Features] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5636.htm 5636 - Paper Loading] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5637.htm 5637 - Pen Installation] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5638.htm 5638 - Pinouts] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5639.htm 5639 - Self-Test] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5640.htm 5640 - Dip Switches] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5641.htm 5641 - Specifications]

CGP-115

2026-08-01T01:10:14Z

Bkw: /* ALPS Plotter Engine */

[[File:Cgp115.jpg|thumb]]
=Manuals=
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115_operation_manual Operation Manual]
:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115-service-manual Service Manual]

=ALPS Plotter Engine=
The Tandy CGP-115 is based on the same ALPS DPG-1302 plotter engine as several other plotters.

Plotter Models:
:'''ALPS DPG-1302'''
:Aquarius 4-COLOR PRINTER
:Astron MCP-40X
:Atari 1020
 
:Canon X-710
:Casio FA-10
:Casio FA-11
:Commodore 1520
:Convergent Microprinter WP-100
:Mattel Aquarius 4615
:MCP-40 ([http://www.pc-1500.info/2014/11/21/frank-c-odds-favorite-printer-sharp-pc-1500/ not the Oric one])
:Olivetti PL 10
:Oric MCP-40
:Sega SP-400
:Sharp CE-1600P
:Sharp MZ-1P01
:Sharp MZ-1P16
:Sharp PC-2500
:Silver Reed EB50
:Tandy CGP-115
:Texas Instruments HX-1000
:Vtech Laser PP-40I

There is another version of the same ALPS engine that just takes narrower paper, but is otherwise the same, using the same pens and pinion gears.
:Sharp CE-150
:Tandy 26-3605
:Mitutoyo DP-2
:Mitutoyo DP-3

And another version that takes wider paper.
:Brother Type-O-Graph BP-30 (takes the same pens but might not be the Alps engine)
:Panasonic Penwriter RK-P400
:Sharp CE-515P
:Sharp CE-516P
:Sony PRN-C41

=Pens=
[[File:EvidENTpens.jpg|100px|frameless|right]]

A German medical supplies company is manufacturing new pens designed for this plotter mechanism.

They're expensive, especially with the shipping, but, they're new, and you can refill them practically forever for pennies per refill.

https://www.evident-shop.de/en/search?sSearch=stifte

=Gears=
The pinion/spindle gears on the X and Y motors are made of Nylon, which has shrunk over time, and essentially all of these gears are split by now, or soon will be.

===Specs===
:13 tooth
:0.25 modulus
:1.5mm bore
:4.5mm length

These are the specs to re-create the gear from scratch. For example the FreeCAD model below was made by just plugging those values into the involute gear plugin in FreeCAD.

===Sources===


The original gears are nylon. You can't get those any more, but you can get two other forms of new gears.

Jeff Birt of the "Hey Birt!" Youtube channel has commissioned some machined brass gears: https://www.soigeneris.com/alps-printer-plotter-mechanism-pinion-gears

You can also get 3d-printed gears: http://shpws.me/Si9K

CAD model source for the 3d-printed gears: https://github.com/bkw777/ALPS_plotter_gears



To install brass gears, I used a small hobby/electronics table-top vise with plastic jaws (Panavise 301) to press the gears onto the motor shafts without deforming the end of the shaft. The rear end of the shaft is very close to the bearing and so you want to be extra careful to avoid even a tiny impreceptible damage to the shape of the shaft. You can remove a thin metal sheet that covers the motors on the back, and that exposes the motors enough to get the corners of the vise jaws on both ends of the motor shaft without having to remove the motors. The jaws on that model of vise are plastic, so they don't harm the motor shaft on the back of the motors. If you use a steel jaw vice, be sure to protect the rear motor shaft from direct metal to metal contact with the vice jaw, to prevent the vise jaw from deforming the motor shaft.

=Paper=

===Specs===
:plain bond
:4.5" wide
:7/16" core
:up to 3" diameter
:160 feet

Original Radio Shack item was 180 feet but that's not a common size. The Original paper may have been a thinner bond too. 160 feet of plain bond does fit in the machine with room to spare. Often the selling sites will list the roll diameter which removes all guessing.

Typical search term: "4.5" bond roll"

http://www.itplanet.com/parts/Star__87999850.htm

https://www.cibowares.com/4-5-x-160-white-bond-1-ply-register-roll-package-of-20/

http://www.sunshinesupport.com/prod/receipt-paper-rolls/1-ply-45-inch-x-165-paper-25-rolls-45165.htm

=Refilling Pens=

The new pens from the German medical supplies company are pretty expensive considering that they are so small and don’t last very long.

The new pens can be refilled fairly easily with insulin syringes available from local drug stores. Example:
:Walgreens item 677232
:10-pack, 29 gauge, 0.3mL
:super thin syringes for insulin

When looking for alternative inks, you need to know that the original ink is water-based. 
You want to use an ink that is water-based, and uses dye not pigment. In other words, not India ink! That has pigments made of particulates like a paint. That clogs up the wick fibers and the ball and wrecks the pen. You need inks that are purely liquid, which means dyes not pigments. 
The simplest way to identify a good ink is to search for water-based drafting/plotter pen ink.

These Koh-I-Noor/Chartpak model numbers are perfect:
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLA 3080-F-BLA] black
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLU 3080-F-BLU] blue
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-RED 3080-F-RED] red
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-GRE 3080-F-GRE] green

Fill a syringe to about the 20 mark. (0.2ml)

Around the tip of the pen (the new plastic german ones) there are 3 vent holes.
Insert the syringe into one of those. Angle towards the center a little to minimize how much the vent passage gets mushed open by the needle.

Slowly, giving the ink time to soak into the fiber filler inside, push the plunger from about 20 to about 10. When you see ink in the other vent holes, you’ve actually gone slightly too far, or too fast.

Put the printer in 80 column mode ( jumper 2 = off ) and LLIST a basic program until the writing looks clean. It may splatter a little at first.

Clean up with a calligraphy pen cleaning solution, like:
:http://artid.com/members/calligraphy/blog/post/1529-pen-and-brush-cleaner-recipe
or Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze.

It works to restore old dried pens too if you soak the disassembled parts in a jar for a day or so. Most original (30 year old) pens are not recoverable, but some are.

I have no idea how many times a pen can be refilled before the ball point wears out, but even once is worth it, considering how expensive they are and how quickly they run out. I have only refilled each color about twice so far.

For the original steel barrel pens: 
You have to completely disassemble the pens and soak the parts in the cleaning solution for a few hours, or even days. 
If the metal ball point still does not roll or flow, try passing the tip into a flame briefly to free up the ball from being stuck. This is just for METAL tips! I don't know if it works by melting the dried ink or by expanding the metal around the ball, but it works. It only takes a brief exposure, less than a second. Just pass it above a flame back and forth once or twice, don't hold it in place. This breaks the ball free and allows the ball to roll again, and the ink to flow again. 
You have to inject ink with the pen tip off. You can’t go in through a vent hole like you can for the new plastic pens. 
All in all, I’ve generally had less than 50% success rate refilling and reviving old pens. Even after completely disassembling and cleaning all parts and freeing the stuck ball points. But occasionally it does work, and a few pens are better than no pens.

=Pen/Ink Storage=
Store pens and ink in something that is more vapor-proof than oridinary plastic bags or boxes. You want metal or glass, like glass jars with metal lids or foil bags with actual aluminum foil not merely a silvery appearance.

The plastic ink bottles and pen bodies will lose both alcohol and water right through the plastic over time. If they are stored in ordinary plastic bags or containers, even with seals, the vapor pases right through that plastic over time the same way. So you want to store them inside something that will actually trap the vapor inside over long periods, which slows down the loss of volotiles from the ink. Metal in particular also protects the dye from UV.

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L80T2O/

This item comes with dessicant packs. Do '''NOT''' include the dessicant packs! The whole point is to keep the moisture trapped IN the bag.

=Pics / Video=

https://goo.gl/photos/8HNKcnyMKBJupYnq9

=Other=
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhSUpfQVdWc2VrdTA?resourcekey=0-kYFofyxhQLoKkG_phO0KHg&usp=sharing

==M100SIG Archive==
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/BIORTH.CGP 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-03-TELCOM/RLECGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/CGP115.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/BCODE2.BAS 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-05-GAMES/WRDSCH.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/TP-10.THD 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GRFX.100 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/OLIM10.DIF 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/PRTCGP.115 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/APLOT.115 

==TANDY faxback==

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4000.htm 4000 - Selecting a Printer Cable] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4001.htm 4001 - Care and Maintenance] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4002.htm 4002 - Using Control Codes From BASIC] 
[http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05632.txt 5632 - Catalog Listing] 


[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5633.htm 5633 - Cables] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5634.htm 5634 - Control Codes] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5635.htm 5635 - Features] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5636.htm 5636 - Paper Loading] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5637.htm 5637 - Pen Installation] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5638.htm 5638 - Pinouts] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5639.htm 5639 - Self-Test] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5640.htm 5640 - Dip Switches] 

[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5641.htm 5641 - Specifications]

Model 100

2026-07-17T18:42:59Z

Bkw:

===Intro===
[https://youtu.be/l2TiKFBS3LY Sales Training Video]

===Manuals===
[[Model 100 Manuals]]

===Other Books===
[https://archive.org/details/inside-the-trs-80-model-100 Inside The TRS-80 Model 100] 
[https://archive.org/details/HiddenPowersOfTheTrs80Model100 Hidden Powers of the TRS-80 Model 100] 
https://archive.org/details/IntroducingTheTrs80Model100 
https://archive.org/details/MasteringBasicOnTheTrs80Model100 
https://archive.org/details/Trs80Model100AUsersGuide 
https://archive.org/details/Model_100_Portable_Computer_Learners_Manual_1983_Compusoft_Publishing 
https://archive.org/details/TheModel100BookAGuideToPortableComputing 
https://archive.org/details/TheModel100Companion 
https://archive.org/details/PortableBasic 

===RAM===
[[Model 100 RAM]]

===Serial Cable===
[[Model_T_Serial_Cable]]

===Parallel able===
[[Model_T_Parallel_Cable]]

===Barcode Wand===
[[BCR_PORT]]

===RAM Expansion===
[[PG Designs M100 RAM Expansion|PG Designs]]

===System ROM===
[[Model_T_Y2K|Y2K Patch]] 
[[https://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=M100/T102_Hardware_scrolling_patch Hardware Scrolling Patch]] 
[[https://sarahkmarr.com/retromodel100.html LibROM]] 
[[FlexROM_100]]

===Option ROM===
[[Model 100 Option ROM pinout|Pinout]] 
[[REX]] 
[[Teeprom]]

===Disk===
[[TPDD|Tandy Portable Disk Drive]] 
[[Disk/Video Interface]] 
[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1V_0imPo_JmF8xKWGJLOlfmnWdGPz5k-A Remote Disk] 

=Software=
[[Text_Sweeper]]

=Other resources=
[https://archive.org/details/M100SIG The M100 SIG Archive]

Disk/Video Interface

2026-07-17T18:31:35Z

Bkw:

[[File:m100-dvi-2.jpg]]
[[File:m100-dvi-1.jpg]]

==Video==
[https://youtu.be/Mt6AmyLKkXQ Basic Usage Example]

==Manuals==

[https://archive.org/details/trs-80-model-100-disk-video-interface Manual]

[http://cini.classiccmp.org/pdf/Tandy/Disk%20Video%20Interface%20Service%20Manual.pdf Service Manual]

[https://archive.org/details/DVI263806Notice 26-3806 Notice]

[https://archive.org/details/TRS80DVICorrectionBASICErrorCodes Correction to BASIC Error Codes]

==System Disk==
There are 2 versions of the system disk, one for Model 100 (and 102) only, and one for both Model 100 & 200.

[[File:DVI_system_disk_1.jpg|200px]]
[[File:DVI_system_disk_2.jpg|200px]]

Steven Adolph has dissected and copied the system disk files. 
[http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?&direction=0&order=&directory=Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files System Disk files from Steven Adolf on Club100]

The system disk formatting and files are fully described in the service manual.

Arcadeshopper has copies of both versions of the system disk.

[https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/Disk-Video-Interface-system-disk-26-314-Model-100-102/p/141587103/category=28313042 26-314 for Model 100]

[https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/Disk-Video-Interface-system-disk-26-3806-Model-200/p/143281618/category=28313042 26-3806 for Model 200]

==Cable==
[[Disk/Video Interface: Cable|Cable]]

==Drives==
[[Disk/Video Interface: Drives|Drives]]

==ROM dumps==
[[File:M40_P.bin]] is the main rom 
[[File:M17 CG.bin]] is the character generator 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1yqVh_mj5vtBJhYng-Uitvsjnykq0Knnt

==Wonderful Hacks from Days Gone By==
[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/DVI2ND.INF Use the cassette motor control to use both sides of a double-sided drive!]

==Search the entire M100SIG archive for anything related to the Disk/Video Interface==
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/search?q=Disk%2FVideo

Disk/Video Interface

2026-07-17T18:27:57Z

Bkw: /* Other Books */

[[File:m100-dvi-2.jpg]]
[[File:m100-dvi-1.jpg]]

==Video==
[https://youtu.be/Mt6AmyLKkXQ Basic Usage Example]

==Manuals==

[https://archive.org/details/trs-80-model-100-disk-video-interface Manual]

[http://cini.classiccmp.org/pdf/Tandy/Disk%20Video%20Interface%20Service%20Manual.pdf Service Manual]

[https://archive.org/details/DVI263806Notice 26-3806 Notice]

[https://archive.org/details/TRS80DVICorrectionBASICErrorCodes Correction to BASIC Error Codes]

==Other Books==
[https://archive.org/details/inside-the-trs-80-model-100 Inside The TRS-80 Model 100]

==System Disk==
There are 2 versions of the system disk, one for Model 100 (and 102) only, and one for both Model 100 & 200.

[[File:DVI_system_disk_1.jpg|200px]]
[[File:DVI_system_disk_2.jpg|200px]]

Steven Adolph has dissected and copied the system disk files. 
[http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?&direction=0&order=&directory=Steve%20Adolph/DVI%20boot%20disk%20files System Disk files from Steven Adolf on Club100]

The system disk formatting and files are fully described in the service manual.

Arcadeshopper has copies of both versions of the system disk.

[https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/Disk-Video-Interface-system-disk-26-314-Model-100-102/p/141587103/category=28313042 26-314 for Model 100]

[https://www.arcadeshopper.com/wp/?page_id=11#!/Disk-Video-Interface-system-disk-26-3806-Model-200/p/143281618/category=28313042 26-3806 for Model 200]

==Cable==
[[Disk/Video Interface: Cable|Cable]]

==Drives==
[[Disk/Video Interface: Drives|Drives]]

==ROM dumps==
[[File:M40_P.bin]] is the main rom 
[[File:M17 CG.bin]] is the character generator 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1yqVh_mj5vtBJhYng-Uitvsjnykq0Knnt

==Wonderful Hacks from Days Gone By==
[https://raw.githubusercontent.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/DVI2ND.INF Use the cassette motor control to use both sides of a double-sided drive!]

==Search the entire M100SIG archive for anything related to the Disk/Video Interface==
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/search?q=Disk%2FVideo

Chipmunk

2026-07-13T05:55:26Z

Bkw:

[[File:Chipmunk-1.jpg]]
[[File:Chipmunk-2.jpg]]
[[File:Chipmunk-3.jpg]]
[[File:Chipmunk-4.jpg]]

Archive of info about the Chipmunk drive
:[https://drive.google.com/open?id=15cgSELm9PNgJbU3GPknN2DpYh6JX1qnw chipmunk_drive.zip]

There is also some info in the [https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG M100SIG] archive, particularly the "peripherals" dir.

Chipmunk

2026-07-13T05:53:49Z

Bkw:

[[File:Chipmunk-1.jpg]]
[[File:Chipmunk-2.jpg]]
[[File:Chipmunk-3.jpg]]
[[File:Chipmunk-4.jpg]]

Archive of info about the Chipmunk drive
:[https://drive.google.com/open?id=15cgSELm9PNgJbU3GPknN2DpYh6JX1qnw chipmunk_drive.zip]
[[File:chipmunk_drive.zip]]

There is also some info in the [https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG M100SIG] archive, particularly the "peripherals" dir.

A&J MicroDrive System-100

2026-06-09T21:46:31Z

Bkw: /* TRS-80 Model 100 */

The A&J MicroDrive System-100 is a tape drive almost identical to the Exatron Stringy Floppy.

Entrepo / A&J MicroDrive was a company that spun off from Exatron. Initially they sold tape drives with the same drive mechanisms and cassettes (called "wafers") as the Exatron Stringy Floppy, then switched to a different drive mechanism from BSR and "microwafer" cassette that is conceptually the same as the Exatron Stringy Floppy, but with different dimensions. The BSR & Exatron drives & wafers are not compatible with each other, even though at least one example BSR-drive system also called their tapes "Stringy Floppy".

The same drive was sold in at least a few other products for other platforms. Some examples: 
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotronics_Wafadrive Rotronics WafaDrive for the ZX Spectrum]
* Entrepo Quick Data Drive Model 8500 for Commodor 64 & VIC-20 (also rebadged by at least Phonemark and NCS)
* [https://www.msx.org/wiki/Spectravideo_SVI-777 Spectravideo SVI-777 Stringy Floppy Drive for MSX systems]


The wafers were made & sold by Entrepo, and also rebadged by at least Phonemark and Smith Corona.

=Manual=
Manual for the Commodore64 version, only useful for the hardware aspects: 
[https://archive.org/details/QuickDataDriveModel8500C64/mode/2up Entrepo Quick Data Drive Model 8500] (for quality, ignore the .pdf, the original is the [https://archive.org/download/QuickDataDriveModel8500C64/Quick%20Data%20Drive_manual.cbz .cbz])

There is no software manual for the Model 100 version of this drive. 
Scanning the M100SIG yields a few bits of instruction.

This review gives a few commands and procedures in passing. 
[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/SYSTEM.REV Review of A&J System 100]

=Software=
The "tape operating system" software was distributed from their BBS. Customers were instructed to dial the BBS and download the software and create their own tape backups. 

==TRS-80 Model 100==
http://www.club100.org/library/ups/tosa.100 A&J System 100 TOS for TRS-80 Model 100, version A 
http://www.club100.org/library/ups/tosb.100 A&J System 100 TOS for TRS-80 Model 100, version B 
http://www.club100.org/library/ups/tosc.100 A&J System 100 TOS for TRS-80 Model 100, version C 
http://www.club100.org/library/ups/tosd.100 A&J System 100 TOS for TRS-80 Model 100, version D 

Originally found at http://www.club100.org/library/libups.html in the Robert Benson section.

You can bootstrap these onto the 100 over the serial port a few different ways
* Mac/Linux/BSD: https://github.com/bkw777/dl2 : (dl -v -b tosd.100)
* Mac/Linux/BSD: https://github.com/bkw777/pdd.sh : (pdd bootstrap tosd.100)
* Windows: https://github.com/bkw777/tsend : (.\tsend.ps1 -file tosd.100)
* Generic comm program & TELCOM: http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Text_File_Transfer_using_Hyperterminal

Other software besides the OS: 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/DYSAVE.DOC 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/DYSAVE.AJ 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/FIXKEY.100 

==Olivetti M10==
:[[File:System 100 TOS 5 rel 1 for Olivetti M10.zip]]
:[[File:DISK10.zip]]

=Misc References=
http://www.trs-80.org/exatron-stringy-floppy/

There is some info in the [https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG M100SIG] archive, particularly the "reviews" dir.

[https://archive.org/details/a-j-micro-drive-exatron-stringy-floppy-for-timex-sinclair-manual Manual for A&J MicroDrive for Timex Sinclair]

See pg 33: [https://ftp.whtech.com/club100/doc/p100-8604.pdf Portable-100 Magazine, 1986 April pg. 33]

<gallery>
ajmd-1.jpg
ajmd-2.jpg
ajmd-3.jpg
ajmd-4.jpg
ajmd-5.jpg
ajmd-6.jpg
ajmd-10.jpg
ajmd-11.jpg
</gallery>

Related / Other Platform Versions:
<gallery>
qd1.jpg
qd2.jpg
qd3.jpg
qd4.jpg
qd5.jpg
qd6.jpg
qd7.jpg
qd8.jpg
qd9.jpg
qd20.jpg
qd21.jpg
qd23.jpg
qd-ncs-1.jpg
qd-entrepo-2.jpg
qd-phonemark-2.jpg
microwafer-entrepo-1.jpg
microwafer-smith-corona-1.jpg
microwafer-phonemark-1.jpg
microwafer-phonemark-2.jpg
microwafer-inside-1.jpg
svi-777-ad.jpg
</gallery>

TPDD client:Tiny

2026-06-02T16:06:57Z

Bkw:

Tiny is a very tiny DOS produced by Tracy Allen of Acroatix (makers of POWR-DOS & POWR-DISK).

Tiny is found in a few places, including club100.org and the [https://archive.org/details/M100SIG M100SIG Archive] in the Lib-09-PERIFERALS directory.


The original [https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/TINY.PWR TINY.PWR] from the M100SIG archive. 
Requires hexfer.co or other hex-to-binary converter to install.

[http://www.club100.org/library/ups/tinyld.ba TINYLD.BA] BASIC loader containing TINY.PWR, from Tracy Allen

[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PWRTIP.002 Original Tiny documentation]

[http://club100.org/library/ups/tindoc.do Updated Tiny documentation]

Decompiled assembly https://github.com/bkw777/dl2/tree/master/clients/teeny/src

MISE

2026-05-31T23:55:37Z

Bkw:

http://bartlettlabs.com/MISE/index.html

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhQ0FMZ1o3U3ItNWs?resourcekey=0-9aXaYwOFIndmF8X4QvNhBg

https://github.com/bkw777/MISE_M3SE_enclosure

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1511122

MISE

2026-05-31T23:54:26Z

Bkw:

http://bartlettlabs.com/MISE/index.html

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhQ0FMZ1o3U3ItNWs?resourcekey=0-9aXaYwOFIndmF8X4QvNhBg

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1511122

WP-2

2026-03-29T01:49:36Z

Bkw: /* Serial Cable to PC */

[[File:WP-2.jpg]]

==Manuals==
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Tandy%20WP-2

==RAM Disk==
[[File:WP-2 ramdisk AS6C1008.jpg|400px|frameless]]

Battery-backed SRAM powered by the wall power when present, the AA batteries when wall power is absent, and the CR2430 coin cell when wall power and AA batteries are absent.

Internal ram upgrade socket can take a single chip, either 32K or 128K.

*32K: 32Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-28

*128K: 128Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-32

Many different chips are compatible. Here are just a few for example & reference:
:[https://www.futurlec.com/Memory/628128pr.shtml Hitachi HM628128LP]
:Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN [https://www.digikey.com/short/70tr9zhp from DigiKey] or [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alliance-Memory/AS6C1008-55PCN from Mouser] <-- BEST BATTERY LIFE
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=IS62C1024LL-70W ICSI IS62C1024LL-70W] also LL or L, 70 or 55
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=BS62LV1024PC-70 BSI BS62LV1024PC-70] also 1025 or 1027 or 1028, PC or PI, 70 or 55
:Toshiba TC551001CP-70L
:AMIC LP621024D-70LL
:Goldstar GM76C8128
:Samsung KM681000BLP-7L
:ASI MT5C1008CW-70L/883C

Generic ebay search for the type of chip, not a particular part number: 
https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=128Kx8+sram+dip+32

Installation:
* Turn the PROTECT switch OFF. (This disconnects the memory battery, so you will lose all documents in memory.)
* Install the chip.
* Turn the PROTECT switch ON & turn the main power on.
* Press the Reset pin or F2+CTRL+BKSP
* Format the new ramdisk: FILES -> RAM DISK -> HELP -> Format

The reset will have wiped your system settings, so you may need to configure the battery type again:
* SETUP -> System -> Battery type
If you have NiMH rechargable batteries, say NiCD 
If you have rechargable lithium batteries that output a full 1.5v, say Alkaline

==Expansion Card==
===Original===
[[File:WP-2 IC Card 32k original.jpg|400px|frameless]]

===DIY===
RAM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_2.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_3.jpg
</gallery>
----
ROM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_4.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_5.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_6.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_7.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_4.jpg
</gallery>

https://github.com/bkw777/WP-2_IC_Card

===References / notes===
The WP-2 directory in the M100SIG 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

http://randomvariations.com/category/tandy-wp-2/

Dump the rom to the serial port: 
http://randomvariations.com/2015/08/11/dumping-the-wp-2-rom/

Toshiba Memory Card / IC Card 
http://randomvariations.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_8920_wp2_zork1.jpg 
32K, 64K, or 128K RAM card 
32K, 64K, 128K, or 256K ROM card 

Connector that fits the Expansion port: 
:Similar to PC-Card/Cardbus/PCMCIA, but thinner with a single row of pins instead of two rows of pins.
:38 pins, single row, 1.27mm pitch
:Card main body 3.2mm thick x 54mm wide
:[[File:JC20-B38S-F1.pdf]]

:JAE JC20-B38S-F1-A1 0.4mm pcb, centered, https://www.asapaog.com/rfq/japan-aviation-electronics/jc20-b38s-f1-a1/
:JAE JC20-B38S-F2-A1 0.5mm pcb, offset
:JAE JC20-B38S-F3-A1 0.2mm pcb, offset

==Memory Battery==
[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=CR2430 CR2430]

==Binary Apps==
See the Service Manual pages [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n36/mode/1up 4-16] and [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n120/mode/1up D-1].

https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/ASMPRG.TXT 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/GRAPRG.TXT

[http://bitchin100.com/files/wp2/CAMEL.ZIP CamelForth] FORTH Interpreter

[http://randomvariations.com/2014/09/30/tandy-wp-2-running-an-infocom-interpreter/ ZXZVM] Infocom Z-Machine Interpreter

<nowiki>*</nowiki>.CMD files in the WP-2 in the M100SIG archive 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

==Support Software==
[[WP2DOS]] TPDD emulator and document conversion utility.

==Accessories==
WP-2 can use a Tandy Portable Disk Drive, or clones like Brother FB100, knitking FDD19, Purple Computing D103, or emulators like dplus or laddiealpha.
:[[TPDD]]
:[[TPDD server]]

===Serial Cable for TPDD===
To connect a real TPDD to the WP-2, you need a DE9F to DB25F straight through (not null-modem) cable or combination of cables and adapters. 
To avoid putting strain on the serial plug, It's better to use a cable with just a DB9M on one end, rather than, say, a 9-25 adapter plugged right into the WP-2. A cable that has DE9F on one end, and DB25F on the other end, and straight-through wiring (not null-modem) all in one piece is uncommon. It will be simpler to get a standard 9-25pin "modem" cable, and a 25pin female-female gender-changer.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B002I9XYCC
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0006IEV6U

Another option is you can build a custom TPDD cable just for connecting a TPDD to a WP-2 or PC
:https://github.com/bkw777/TPDD_Cable?tab=readme-ov-file#pc--tandy-wp-2--atari-portfolio

===Serial Cable to PC===
To use a TPDD emulator, you need a 9-pin female null-modem serial cable.

To connect a WP-2 to a PC with a real com port, or a normal usb-serial adapter that ends in a male DE9 plug, you need a DE9F to DE9F null-modem cable:
:https://www.electronics123.com/shop/serf2f6-cable-serial-null-modem-6-de9f-to-de9f-5239
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00QM8ZP5E
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00006B8BJ

Or if the PC side is a usb-serial adapter that includes a few feet of usb cable, then you can use a DE9F-DE9F mini null-modem adapter instead of a null-modem cable.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B075XGRLXW

To connect directly to a PC usb port in a single dedicated-purpose cable with no adapters: 
Note: The cables below will all be annoying to use for every other purpose than connecting to the WP-2. 
These all take the place of having a null-modem serial cable connected to a normal usb-serial adapter. 
Normally you don't want that. Normally you want a normal usb-serial adapter that ends in a male DE9 jack with jack nuts (not screws), wired as DTE. 
These all end in a female DE9 with screws, and are wired as DCE. 
:https://amazon.com/dp/B07DRHB264
:https://amazon.com/dp/B01MY9INHL
:https://amazon.com/dp/B008634VJY
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0CQZ4K3YZ

WP-2

2026-03-29T01:32:21Z

Bkw: /* Serial Cable to PC */

[[File:WP-2.jpg]]

==Manuals==
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Tandy%20WP-2

==RAM Disk==
[[File:WP-2 ramdisk AS6C1008.jpg|400px|frameless]]

Battery-backed SRAM powered by the wall power when present, the AA batteries when wall power is absent, and the CR2430 coin cell when wall power and AA batteries are absent.

Internal ram upgrade socket can take a single chip, either 32K or 128K.

*32K: 32Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-28

*128K: 128Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-32

Many different chips are compatible. Here are just a few for example & reference:
:[https://www.futurlec.com/Memory/628128pr.shtml Hitachi HM628128LP]
:Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN [https://www.digikey.com/short/70tr9zhp from DigiKey] or [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alliance-Memory/AS6C1008-55PCN from Mouser] <-- BEST BATTERY LIFE
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=IS62C1024LL-70W ICSI IS62C1024LL-70W] also LL or L, 70 or 55
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=BS62LV1024PC-70 BSI BS62LV1024PC-70] also 1025 or 1027 or 1028, PC or PI, 70 or 55
:Toshiba TC551001CP-70L
:AMIC LP621024D-70LL
:Goldstar GM76C8128
:Samsung KM681000BLP-7L
:ASI MT5C1008CW-70L/883C

Generic ebay search for the type of chip, not a particular part number: 
https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=128Kx8+sram+dip+32

Installation:
* Turn the PROTECT switch OFF. (This disconnects the memory battery, so you will lose all documents in memory.)
* Install the chip.
* Turn the PROTECT switch ON & turn the main power on.
* Press the Reset pin or F2+CTRL+BKSP
* Format the new ramdisk: FILES -> RAM DISK -> HELP -> Format

The reset will have wiped your system settings, so you may need to configure the battery type again:
* SETUP -> System -> Battery type
If you have NiMH rechargable batteries, say NiCD 
If you have rechargable lithium batteries that output a full 1.5v, say Alkaline

==Expansion Card==
===Original===
[[File:WP-2 IC Card 32k original.jpg|400px|frameless]]

===DIY===
RAM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_2.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_3.jpg
</gallery>
----
ROM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_4.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_5.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_6.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_7.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_4.jpg
</gallery>

https://github.com/bkw777/WP-2_IC_Card

===References / notes===
The WP-2 directory in the M100SIG 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

http://randomvariations.com/category/tandy-wp-2/

Dump the rom to the serial port: 
http://randomvariations.com/2015/08/11/dumping-the-wp-2-rom/

Toshiba Memory Card / IC Card 
http://randomvariations.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_8920_wp2_zork1.jpg 
32K, 64K, or 128K RAM card 
32K, 64K, 128K, or 256K ROM card 

Connector that fits the Expansion port: 
:Similar to PC-Card/Cardbus/PCMCIA, but thinner with a single row of pins instead of two rows of pins.
:38 pins, single row, 1.27mm pitch
:Card main body 3.2mm thick x 54mm wide
:[[File:JC20-B38S-F1.pdf]]

:JAE JC20-B38S-F1-A1 0.4mm pcb, centered, https://www.asapaog.com/rfq/japan-aviation-electronics/jc20-b38s-f1-a1/
:JAE JC20-B38S-F2-A1 0.5mm pcb, offset
:JAE JC20-B38S-F3-A1 0.2mm pcb, offset

==Memory Battery==
[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=CR2430 CR2430]

==Binary Apps==
See the Service Manual pages [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n36/mode/1up 4-16] and [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n120/mode/1up D-1].

https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/ASMPRG.TXT 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/GRAPRG.TXT

[http://bitchin100.com/files/wp2/CAMEL.ZIP CamelForth] FORTH Interpreter

[http://randomvariations.com/2014/09/30/tandy-wp-2-running-an-infocom-interpreter/ ZXZVM] Infocom Z-Machine Interpreter

<nowiki>*</nowiki>.CMD files in the WP-2 in the M100SIG archive 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

==Support Software==
[[WP2DOS]] TPDD emulator and document conversion utility.

==Accessories==
WP-2 can use a Tandy Portable Disk Drive, or clones like Brother FB100, knitking FDD19, Purple Computing D103, or emulators like dplus or laddiealpha.
:[[TPDD]]
:[[TPDD server]]

===Serial Cable for TPDD===
To connect a real TPDD to the WP-2, you need a DE9F to DB25F straight through (not null-modem) cable or combination of cables and adapters. 
To avoid putting strain on the serial plug, It's better to use a cable with just a DB9M on one end, rather than, say, a 9-25 adapter plugged right into the WP-2. A cable that has DE9F on one end, and DB25F on the other end, and straight-through wiring (not null-modem) all in one piece is uncommon. It will be simpler to get a standard 9-25pin "modem" cable, and a 25pin female-female gender-changer.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B002I9XYCC
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0006IEV6U

Another option is you can build a custom TPDD cable just for connecting a TPDD to a WP-2 or PC
:https://github.com/bkw777/TPDD_Cable?tab=readme-ov-file#pc--tandy-wp-2--atari-portfolio

===Serial Cable to PC===
To use a TPDD emulator, you need a 9-pin female null-modem serial cable.

To connect a WP-2 to a PC with a real com port, you can use a DE9F to DE9F null-modem cable:
:https://www.electronics123.com/shop/serf2f6-cable-serial-null-modem-6-de9f-to-de9f-5239
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00QM8ZP5E
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00006B8BJ

To connect to a standard usb-serial adapter with DE9M connector, assuming the usb-serial adapter has a few feet of usb cable, you can use a DE9F-DE9F mini null-modem adapter instead of a serial cable.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B075XGRLXW

To connect directly to a PC usb port in a single dedicated-purpose cable with no adapters:
:https://amazon.com/dp/B07DRHB264
:https://amazon.com/dp/B01MY9INHL
:https://amazon.com/dp/B008634VJY
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0CQZ4K3YZ

WP-2

2026-03-29T01:13:11Z

Bkw: /* RAM Disk */

[[File:WP-2.jpg]]

==Manuals==
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Tandy%20WP-2

==RAM Disk==
[[File:WP-2 ramdisk AS6C1008.jpg|400px|frameless]]

Battery-backed SRAM powered by the wall power when present, the AA batteries when wall power is absent, and the CR2430 coin cell when wall power and AA batteries are absent.

Internal ram upgrade socket can take a single chip, either 32K or 128K.

*32K: 32Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-28

*128K: 128Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-32

Many different chips are compatible. Here are just a few for example & reference:
:[https://www.futurlec.com/Memory/628128pr.shtml Hitachi HM628128LP]
:Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN [https://www.digikey.com/short/70tr9zhp from DigiKey] or [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alliance-Memory/AS6C1008-55PCN from Mouser] <-- BEST BATTERY LIFE
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=IS62C1024LL-70W ICSI IS62C1024LL-70W] also LL or L, 70 or 55
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=BS62LV1024PC-70 BSI BS62LV1024PC-70] also 1025 or 1027 or 1028, PC or PI, 70 or 55
:Toshiba TC551001CP-70L
:AMIC LP621024D-70LL
:Goldstar GM76C8128
:Samsung KM681000BLP-7L
:ASI MT5C1008CW-70L/883C

Generic ebay search for the type of chip, not a particular part number: 
https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=128Kx8+sram+dip+32

Installation:
* Turn the PROTECT switch OFF. (This disconnects the memory battery, so you will lose all documents in memory.)
* Install the chip.
* Turn the PROTECT switch ON & turn the main power on.
* Press the Reset pin or F2+CTRL+BKSP
* Format the new ramdisk: FILES -> RAM DISK -> HELP -> Format

The reset will have wiped your system settings, so you may need to configure the battery type again:
* SETUP -> System -> Battery type
If you have NiMH rechargable batteries, say NiCD 
If you have rechargable lithium batteries that output a full 1.5v, say Alkaline

==Expansion Card==
===Original===
[[File:WP-2 IC Card 32k original.jpg|400px|frameless]]

===DIY===
RAM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_2.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_3.jpg
</gallery>
----
ROM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_4.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_5.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_6.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_7.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_4.jpg
</gallery>

https://github.com/bkw777/WP-2_IC_Card

===References / notes===
The WP-2 directory in the M100SIG 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

http://randomvariations.com/category/tandy-wp-2/

Dump the rom to the serial port: 
http://randomvariations.com/2015/08/11/dumping-the-wp-2-rom/

Toshiba Memory Card / IC Card 
http://randomvariations.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_8920_wp2_zork1.jpg 
32K, 64K, or 128K RAM card 
32K, 64K, 128K, or 256K ROM card 

Connector that fits the Expansion port: 
:Similar to PC-Card/Cardbus/PCMCIA, but thinner with a single row of pins instead of two rows of pins.
:38 pins, single row, 1.27mm pitch
:Card main body 3.2mm thick x 54mm wide
:[[File:JC20-B38S-F1.pdf]]

:JAE JC20-B38S-F1-A1 0.4mm pcb, centered, https://www.asapaog.com/rfq/japan-aviation-electronics/jc20-b38s-f1-a1/
:JAE JC20-B38S-F2-A1 0.5mm pcb, offset
:JAE JC20-B38S-F3-A1 0.2mm pcb, offset

==Memory Battery==
[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=CR2430 CR2430]

==Binary Apps==
See the Service Manual pages [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n36/mode/1up 4-16] and [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n120/mode/1up D-1].

https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/ASMPRG.TXT 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/GRAPRG.TXT

[http://bitchin100.com/files/wp2/CAMEL.ZIP CamelForth] FORTH Interpreter

[http://randomvariations.com/2014/09/30/tandy-wp-2-running-an-infocom-interpreter/ ZXZVM] Infocom Z-Machine Interpreter

<nowiki>*</nowiki>.CMD files in the WP-2 in the M100SIG archive 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

==Support Software==
[[WP2DOS]] TPDD emulator and document conversion utility.

==Accessories==
WP-2 can use a Tandy Portable Disk Drive, or clones like Brother FB100, knitking FDD19, Purple Computing D103, or emulators like dplus or laddiealpha.
:[[TPDD]]
:[[TPDD server]]

===Serial Cable for TPDD===
To connect a real TPDD to the WP-2, you need a DE9F to DB25F straight through (not null-modem) cable or combination of cables and adapters. 
To avoid putting strain on the serial plug, It's better to use a cable with just a DB9M on one end, rather than, say, a 9-25 adapter plugged right into the WP-2. A cable that has DE9F on one end, and DB25F on the other end, and straight-through wiring (not null-modem) all in one piece is uncommon. It will be simpler to get a standard 9-25pin "modem" cable, and a 25pin female-female gender-changer.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B002I9XYCC
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0006IEV6U

Another option is you can build a custom TPDD cable just for connecting a TPDD to a WP-2 or PC
:https://github.com/bkw777/TPDD_Cable?tab=readme-ov-file#pc--tandy-wp-2--atari-portfolio

===Serial Cable to PC===
To use a TPDD emulator, you need a 9-pin female null-modem serial cable.

To connect a WP-2 to a PC with a real com port, you can use a DE9F to DE9F null-modem cable:
:https://www.electronics123.com/shop/serf2f6-cable-serial-null-modem-6-de9f-to-de9f-5239
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00QM8ZP5E
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00006B8BJ

To connect to a standard usb-serial adapter with DE9M connector, assuming the usb-serial adapter has a few feet of usb cable, you can use a DE9F-DE9F mini null-modem adapter instead of a serial cable.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B075XGRLXW

To connect directly to a PC usb port in a single dedicated-purpose cable with no adapters:
:https://amazon.com/dp/B07DRHB264
:https://amazon.com/dp/B01MY9INHL
:https://amazon.com/dp/B008634VJY

WP-2

2026-03-16T05:29:58Z

Bkw: /* Binary Apps */

[[File:WP-2.jpg]]

==Manuals==
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Tandy%20WP-2

==RAM Disk==
[[File:WP-2 ramdisk AS6C1008.jpg|400px|frameless]]

Battery-backed SRAM powered by the wall power when present, the AA batteries when wall power is absent, and the CR2430 coin cell when wall power and AA batteries are absent.

Internal ram upgrade socket can take a single chip, either 32K or 128K.

*32K: 32Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-28

*128K: 128Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-32

Many different chips are compatible. Here are just a few for example & reference:
:[https://www.futurlec.com/Memory/628128pr.shtml Hitachi HM628128LP]
:Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AS6C1008-55PCN/1450-1017-ND/ from DigiKey] or [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alliance-Memory/AS6C1008-55PCN from Mouser] <-- BEST BATTERY LIFE
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=IS62C1024LL-70W ICSI IS62C1024LL-70W] also LL or L, 70 or 55
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=BS62LV1024PC-70 BSI BS62LV1024PC-70] also 1025 or 1027 or 1028, PC or PI, 70 or 55
:Toshiba TC551001CP-70L
:AMIC LP621024D-70LL
:Goldstar GM76C8128
:Samsung KM681000BLP-7L
:ASI MT5C1008CW-70L/883C

Generic ebay search for the type of chip, not a particular part number: 
https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=128Kx8+sram+dip+32

Installation:
* Turn the PROTECT switch OFF. (This disconnects the memory battery, so you will lose all documents in memory.)
* Install the chip.
* Turn the PROTECT switch ON & turn the main power on.
* Press the Reset pin or F2+CTRL+BKSP
* Format the new ramdisk: FILES -> RAM DISK -> HELP -> Format

The reset will have wiped your system settings, so you may need to configure the battery type again:
* SETUP -> System -> Battery type
If you have NiMH rechargable batteries, say NiCD 
If you have rechargable lithium batteries that output a full 1.5v, say Alkaline

==Expansion Card==
===Original===
[[File:WP-2 IC Card 32k original.jpg|400px|frameless]]

===DIY===
RAM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_2.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_3.jpg
</gallery>
----
ROM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_4.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_5.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_6.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_7.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_4.jpg
</gallery>

https://github.com/bkw777/WP-2_IC_Card

===References / notes===
The WP-2 directory in the M100SIG 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

http://randomvariations.com/category/tandy-wp-2/

Dump the rom to the serial port: 
http://randomvariations.com/2015/08/11/dumping-the-wp-2-rom/

Toshiba Memory Card / IC Card 
http://randomvariations.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_8920_wp2_zork1.jpg 
32K, 64K, or 128K RAM card 
32K, 64K, 128K, or 256K ROM card 

Connector that fits the Expansion port: 
:Similar to PC-Card/Cardbus/PCMCIA, but thinner with a single row of pins instead of two rows of pins.
:38 pins, single row, 1.27mm pitch
:Card main body 3.2mm thick x 54mm wide
:[[File:JC20-B38S-F1.pdf]]

:JAE JC20-B38S-F1-A1 0.4mm pcb, centered, https://www.asapaog.com/rfq/japan-aviation-electronics/jc20-b38s-f1-a1/
:JAE JC20-B38S-F2-A1 0.5mm pcb, offset
:JAE JC20-B38S-F3-A1 0.2mm pcb, offset

==Memory Battery==
[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=CR2430 CR2430]

==Binary Apps==
See the Service Manual pages [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n36/mode/1up 4-16] and [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n120/mode/1up D-1].

https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/ASMPRG.TXT 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/GRAPRG.TXT

[http://bitchin100.com/files/wp2/CAMEL.ZIP CamelForth] FORTH Interpreter

[http://randomvariations.com/2014/09/30/tandy-wp-2-running-an-infocom-interpreter/ ZXZVM] Infocom Z-Machine Interpreter

<nowiki>*</nowiki>.CMD files in the WP-2 in the M100SIG archive 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

==Support Software==
[[WP2DOS]] TPDD emulator and document conversion utility.

==Accessories==
WP-2 can use a Tandy Portable Disk Drive, or clones like Brother FB100, knitking FDD19, Purple Computing D103, or emulators like dplus or laddiealpha.
:[[TPDD]]
:[[TPDD server]]

===Serial Cable for TPDD===
To connect a real TPDD to the WP-2, you need a DE9F to DB25F straight through (not null-modem) cable or combination of cables and adapters. 
To avoid putting strain on the serial plug, It's better to use a cable with just a DB9M on one end, rather than, say, a 9-25 adapter plugged right into the WP-2. A cable that has DE9F on one end, and DB25F on the other end, and straight-through wiring (not null-modem) all in one piece is uncommon. It will be simpler to get a standard 9-25pin "modem" cable, and a 25pin female-female gender-changer.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B002I9XYCC
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0006IEV6U

Another option is you can build a custom TPDD cable just for connecting a TPDD to a WP-2 or PC
:https://github.com/bkw777/TPDD_Cable?tab=readme-ov-file#pc--tandy-wp-2--atari-portfolio

===Serial Cable to PC===
To use a TPDD emulator, you need a 9-pin female null-modem serial cable.

To connect a WP-2 to a PC with a real com port, you can use a DE9F to DE9F null-modem cable:
:https://www.electronics123.com/shop/serf2f6-cable-serial-null-modem-6-de9f-to-de9f-5239
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00QM8ZP5E
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00006B8BJ

To connect to a standard usb-serial adapter with DE9M connector, assuming the usb-serial adapter has a few feet of usb cable, you can use a DE9F-DE9F mini null-modem adapter instead of a serial cable.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B075XGRLXW

To connect directly to a PC usb port in a single dedicated-purpose cable with no adapters:
:https://amazon.com/dp/B07DRHB264
:https://amazon.com/dp/B01MY9INHL
:https://amazon.com/dp/B008634VJY

WP-2

2026-03-16T05:24:14Z

Bkw: /* Binary Apps */

[[File:WP-2.jpg]]

==Manuals==
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Tandy%20WP-2

==RAM Disk==
[[File:WP-2 ramdisk AS6C1008.jpg|400px|frameless]]

Battery-backed SRAM powered by the wall power when present, the AA batteries when wall power is absent, and the CR2430 coin cell when wall power and AA batteries are absent.

Internal ram upgrade socket can take a single chip, either 32K or 128K.

*32K: 32Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-28

*128K: 128Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-32

Many different chips are compatible. Here are just a few for example & reference:
:[https://www.futurlec.com/Memory/628128pr.shtml Hitachi HM628128LP]
:Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AS6C1008-55PCN/1450-1017-ND/ from DigiKey] or [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alliance-Memory/AS6C1008-55PCN from Mouser] <-- BEST BATTERY LIFE
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=IS62C1024LL-70W ICSI IS62C1024LL-70W] also LL or L, 70 or 55
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=BS62LV1024PC-70 BSI BS62LV1024PC-70] also 1025 or 1027 or 1028, PC or PI, 70 or 55
:Toshiba TC551001CP-70L
:AMIC LP621024D-70LL
:Goldstar GM76C8128
:Samsung KM681000BLP-7L
:ASI MT5C1008CW-70L/883C

Generic ebay search for the type of chip, not a particular part number: 
https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=128Kx8+sram+dip+32

Installation:
* Turn the PROTECT switch OFF. (This disconnects the memory battery, so you will lose all documents in memory.)
* Install the chip.
* Turn the PROTECT switch ON & turn the main power on.
* Press the Reset pin or F2+CTRL+BKSP
* Format the new ramdisk: FILES -> RAM DISK -> HELP -> Format

The reset will have wiped your system settings, so you may need to configure the battery type again:
* SETUP -> System -> Battery type
If you have NiMH rechargable batteries, say NiCD 
If you have rechargable lithium batteries that output a full 1.5v, say Alkaline

==Expansion Card==
===Original===
[[File:WP-2 IC Card 32k original.jpg|400px|frameless]]

===DIY===
RAM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_2.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_3.jpg
</gallery>
----
ROM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_4.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_5.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_6.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_7.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_4.jpg
</gallery>

https://github.com/bkw777/WP-2_IC_Card

===References / notes===
The WP-2 directory in the M100SIG 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

http://randomvariations.com/category/tandy-wp-2/

Dump the rom to the serial port: 
http://randomvariations.com/2015/08/11/dumping-the-wp-2-rom/

Toshiba Memory Card / IC Card 
http://randomvariations.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_8920_wp2_zork1.jpg 
32K, 64K, or 128K RAM card 
32K, 64K, 128K, or 256K ROM card 

Connector that fits the Expansion port: 
:Similar to PC-Card/Cardbus/PCMCIA, but thinner with a single row of pins instead of two rows of pins.
:38 pins, single row, 1.27mm pitch
:Card main body 3.2mm thick x 54mm wide
:[[File:JC20-B38S-F1.pdf]]

:JAE JC20-B38S-F1-A1 0.4mm pcb, centered, https://www.asapaog.com/rfq/japan-aviation-electronics/jc20-b38s-f1-a1/
:JAE JC20-B38S-F2-A1 0.5mm pcb, offset
:JAE JC20-B38S-F3-A1 0.2mm pcb, offset

==Memory Battery==
[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=CR2430 CR2430]

==Binary Apps==
See the Service Manual pages [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n36/mode/1up 4-16] and [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n120/mode/1up D-1].

https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/ASMPRG.TXT 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/GRAPRG.TXT

[http://bitchin100.com/files/wp2/CAMEL.ZIP CamelForth] FORTH Interpreter

[http://randomvariations.com/2014/09/30/tandy-wp-2-running-an-infocom-interpreter/ ZXZVM] Infocom Z-Machine Interpreter

==Support Software==
[[WP2DOS]] TPDD emulator and document conversion utility.

==Accessories==
WP-2 can use a Tandy Portable Disk Drive, or clones like Brother FB100, knitking FDD19, Purple Computing D103, or emulators like dplus or laddiealpha.
:[[TPDD]]
:[[TPDD server]]

===Serial Cable for TPDD===
To connect a real TPDD to the WP-2, you need a DE9F to DB25F straight through (not null-modem) cable or combination of cables and adapters. 
To avoid putting strain on the serial plug, It's better to use a cable with just a DB9M on one end, rather than, say, a 9-25 adapter plugged right into the WP-2. A cable that has DE9F on one end, and DB25F on the other end, and straight-through wiring (not null-modem) all in one piece is uncommon. It will be simpler to get a standard 9-25pin "modem" cable, and a 25pin female-female gender-changer.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B002I9XYCC
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0006IEV6U

Another option is you can build a custom TPDD cable just for connecting a TPDD to a WP-2 or PC
:https://github.com/bkw777/TPDD_Cable?tab=readme-ov-file#pc--tandy-wp-2--atari-portfolio

===Serial Cable to PC===
To use a TPDD emulator, you need a 9-pin female null-modem serial cable.

To connect a WP-2 to a PC with a real com port, you can use a DE9F to DE9F null-modem cable:
:https://www.electronics123.com/shop/serf2f6-cable-serial-null-modem-6-de9f-to-de9f-5239
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00QM8ZP5E
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00006B8BJ

To connect to a standard usb-serial adapter with DE9M connector, assuming the usb-serial adapter has a few feet of usb cable, you can use a DE9F-DE9F mini null-modem adapter instead of a serial cable.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B075XGRLXW

To connect directly to a PC usb port in a single dedicated-purpose cable with no adapters:
:https://amazon.com/dp/B07DRHB264
:https://amazon.com/dp/B01MY9INHL
:https://amazon.com/dp/B008634VJY

WP-2

2026-03-16T05:19:25Z

Bkw: /* References / notes */

[[File:WP-2.jpg]]

==Manuals==
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Tandy%20WP-2

==RAM Disk==
[[File:WP-2 ramdisk AS6C1008.jpg|400px|frameless]]

Battery-backed SRAM powered by the wall power when present, the AA batteries when wall power is absent, and the CR2430 coin cell when wall power and AA batteries are absent.

Internal ram upgrade socket can take a single chip, either 32K or 128K.

*32K: 32Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-28

*128K: 128Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-32

Many different chips are compatible. Here are just a few for example & reference:
:[https://www.futurlec.com/Memory/628128pr.shtml Hitachi HM628128LP]
:Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AS6C1008-55PCN/1450-1017-ND/ from DigiKey] or [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alliance-Memory/AS6C1008-55PCN from Mouser] <-- BEST BATTERY LIFE
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=IS62C1024LL-70W ICSI IS62C1024LL-70W] also LL or L, 70 or 55
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=BS62LV1024PC-70 BSI BS62LV1024PC-70] also 1025 or 1027 or 1028, PC or PI, 70 or 55
:Toshiba TC551001CP-70L
:AMIC LP621024D-70LL
:Goldstar GM76C8128
:Samsung KM681000BLP-7L
:ASI MT5C1008CW-70L/883C

Generic ebay search for the type of chip, not a particular part number: 
https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=128Kx8+sram+dip+32

Installation:
* Turn the PROTECT switch OFF. (This disconnects the memory battery, so you will lose all documents in memory.)
* Install the chip.
* Turn the PROTECT switch ON & turn the main power on.
* Press the Reset pin or F2+CTRL+BKSP
* Format the new ramdisk: FILES -> RAM DISK -> HELP -> Format

The reset will have wiped your system settings, so you may need to configure the battery type again:
* SETUP -> System -> Battery type
If you have NiMH rechargable batteries, say NiCD 
If you have rechargable lithium batteries that output a full 1.5v, say Alkaline

==Expansion Card==
===Original===
[[File:WP-2 IC Card 32k original.jpg|400px|frameless]]

===DIY===
RAM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_2.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_3.jpg
</gallery>
----
ROM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_4.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_5.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_6.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_7.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_4.jpg
</gallery>

https://github.com/bkw777/WP-2_IC_Card

===References / notes===
The WP-2 directory in the M100SIG 
https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/tree/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2

http://randomvariations.com/category/tandy-wp-2/

Dump the rom to the serial port: 
http://randomvariations.com/2015/08/11/dumping-the-wp-2-rom/

Toshiba Memory Card / IC Card 
http://randomvariations.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_8920_wp2_zork1.jpg 
32K, 64K, or 128K RAM card 
32K, 64K, 128K, or 256K ROM card 

Connector that fits the Expansion port: 
:Similar to PC-Card/Cardbus/PCMCIA, but thinner with a single row of pins instead of two rows of pins.
:38 pins, single row, 1.27mm pitch
:Card main body 3.2mm thick x 54mm wide
:[[File:JC20-B38S-F1.pdf]]

:JAE JC20-B38S-F1-A1 0.4mm pcb, centered, https://www.asapaog.com/rfq/japan-aviation-electronics/jc20-b38s-f1-a1/
:JAE JC20-B38S-F2-A1 0.5mm pcb, offset
:JAE JC20-B38S-F3-A1 0.2mm pcb, offset

==Memory Battery==
[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=CR2430 CR2430]

==Binary Apps==
See the Service Manual pages [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n36/mode/1up 4-16] and [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n120/mode/1up D-1].

https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/ASMPRG.TXT

[http://bitchin100.com/files/wp2/CAMEL.ZIP CamelForth] FORTH Interpreter

[http://randomvariations.com/2014/09/30/tandy-wp-2-running-an-infocom-interpreter/ ZXZVM] Infocom Z-Machine Interpreter

==Support Software==
[[WP2DOS]] TPDD emulator and document conversion utility.

==Accessories==
WP-2 can use a Tandy Portable Disk Drive, or clones like Brother FB100, knitking FDD19, Purple Computing D103, or emulators like dplus or laddiealpha.
:[[TPDD]]
:[[TPDD server]]

===Serial Cable for TPDD===
To connect a real TPDD to the WP-2, you need a DE9F to DB25F straight through (not null-modem) cable or combination of cables and adapters. 
To avoid putting strain on the serial plug, It's better to use a cable with just a DB9M on one end, rather than, say, a 9-25 adapter plugged right into the WP-2. A cable that has DE9F on one end, and DB25F on the other end, and straight-through wiring (not null-modem) all in one piece is uncommon. It will be simpler to get a standard 9-25pin "modem" cable, and a 25pin female-female gender-changer.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B002I9XYCC
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0006IEV6U

Another option is you can build a custom TPDD cable just for connecting a TPDD to a WP-2 or PC
:https://github.com/bkw777/TPDD_Cable?tab=readme-ov-file#pc--tandy-wp-2--atari-portfolio

===Serial Cable to PC===
To use a TPDD emulator, you need a 9-pin female null-modem serial cable.

To connect a WP-2 to a PC with a real com port, you can use a DE9F to DE9F null-modem cable:
:https://www.electronics123.com/shop/serf2f6-cable-serial-null-modem-6-de9f-to-de9f-5239
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00QM8ZP5E
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00006B8BJ

To connect to a standard usb-serial adapter with DE9M connector, assuming the usb-serial adapter has a few feet of usb cable, you can use a DE9F-DE9F mini null-modem adapter instead of a serial cable.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B075XGRLXW

To connect directly to a PC usb port in a single dedicated-purpose cable with no adapters:
:https://amazon.com/dp/B07DRHB264
:https://amazon.com/dp/B01MY9INHL
:https://amazon.com/dp/B008634VJY

WP-2

2026-03-16T05:18:09Z

Bkw: /* Binary Apps */

[[File:WP-2.jpg]]

==Manuals==
https://archive.org/search.php?query=Tandy%20WP-2

==RAM Disk==
[[File:WP-2 ramdisk AS6C1008.jpg|400px|frameless]]

Battery-backed SRAM powered by the wall power when present, the AA batteries when wall power is absent, and the CR2430 coin cell when wall power and AA batteries are absent.

Internal ram upgrade socket can take a single chip, either 32K or 128K.

*32K: 32Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-28

*128K: 128Kx8 parallel SRAM, 5v, low power, DIP-32

Many different chips are compatible. Here are just a few for example & reference:
:[https://www.futurlec.com/Memory/628128pr.shtml Hitachi HM628128LP]
:Alliance AS6C1008-55PCN [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AS6C1008-55PCN/1450-1017-ND/ from DigiKey] or [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alliance-Memory/AS6C1008-55PCN from Mouser] <-- BEST BATTERY LIFE
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=IS62C1024LL-70W ICSI IS62C1024LL-70W] also LL or L, 70 or 55
:[https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=BS62LV1024PC-70 BSI BS62LV1024PC-70] also 1025 or 1027 or 1028, PC or PI, 70 or 55
:Toshiba TC551001CP-70L
:AMIC LP621024D-70LL
:Goldstar GM76C8128
:Samsung KM681000BLP-7L
:ASI MT5C1008CW-70L/883C

Generic ebay search for the type of chip, not a particular part number: 
https://ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=128Kx8+sram+dip+32

Installation:
* Turn the PROTECT switch OFF. (This disconnects the memory battery, so you will lose all documents in memory.)
* Install the chip.
* Turn the PROTECT switch ON & turn the main power on.
* Press the Reset pin or F2+CTRL+BKSP
* Format the new ramdisk: FILES -> RAM DISK -> HELP -> Format

The reset will have wiped your system settings, so you may need to configure the battery type again:
* SETUP -> System -> Battery type
If you have NiMH rechargable batteries, say NiCD 
If you have rechargable lithium batteries that output a full 1.5v, say Alkaline

==Expansion Card==
===Original===
[[File:WP-2 IC Card 32k original.jpg|400px|frameless]]

===DIY===
RAM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_2.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_RAM_3.jpg
</gallery>
----
ROM Card
<gallery>
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_1.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_4.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_5.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_6.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_7.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_3.jpg
WP-2_IC_Card_ROM_programming_adapter_4.jpg
</gallery>

https://github.com/bkw777/WP-2_IC_Card

===References / notes===
http://randomvariations.com/category/tandy-wp-2/

Dump the rom to the serial port: 
http://randomvariations.com/2015/08/11/dumping-the-wp-2-rom/

Toshiba Memory Card / IC Card 
http://randomvariations.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_8920_wp2_zork1.jpg 
32K, 64K, or 128K RAM card 
32K, 64K, 128K, or 256K ROM card 

Connector that fits the Expansion port: 
:Similar to PC-Card/Cardbus/PCMCIA, but thinner with a single row of pins instead of two rows of pins.
:38 pins, single row, 1.27mm pitch
:Card main body 3.2mm thick x 54mm wide
:[[File:JC20-B38S-F1.pdf]]

:JAE JC20-B38S-F1-A1 0.4mm pcb, centered, https://www.asapaog.com/rfq/japan-aviation-electronics/jc20-b38s-f1-a1/
:JAE JC20-B38S-F2-A1 0.5mm pcb, offset
:JAE JC20-B38S-F3-A1 0.2mm pcb, offset

==Memory Battery==
[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=CR2430 CR2430]

==Binary Apps==
See the Service Manual pages [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n36/mode/1up 4-16] and [https://archive.org/details/Tandy_WP-2_Portable_Wordprocessor_Service_Manual_1989_Tandy/page/n120/mode/1up D-1].

https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-15-WP2/ASMPRG.TXT

[http://bitchin100.com/files/wp2/CAMEL.ZIP CamelForth] FORTH Interpreter

[http://randomvariations.com/2014/09/30/tandy-wp-2-running-an-infocom-interpreter/ ZXZVM] Infocom Z-Machine Interpreter

==Support Software==
[[WP2DOS]] TPDD emulator and document conversion utility.

==Accessories==
WP-2 can use a Tandy Portable Disk Drive, or clones like Brother FB100, knitking FDD19, Purple Computing D103, or emulators like dplus or laddiealpha.
:[[TPDD]]
:[[TPDD server]]

===Serial Cable for TPDD===
To connect a real TPDD to the WP-2, you need a DE9F to DB25F straight through (not null-modem) cable or combination of cables and adapters. 
To avoid putting strain on the serial plug, It's better to use a cable with just a DB9M on one end, rather than, say, a 9-25 adapter plugged right into the WP-2. A cable that has DE9F on one end, and DB25F on the other end, and straight-through wiring (not null-modem) all in one piece is uncommon. It will be simpler to get a standard 9-25pin "modem" cable, and a 25pin female-female gender-changer.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B002I9XYCC
:https://amazon.com/dp/B0006IEV6U

Another option is you can build a custom TPDD cable just for connecting a TPDD to a WP-2 or PC
:https://github.com/bkw777/TPDD_Cable?tab=readme-ov-file#pc--tandy-wp-2--atari-portfolio

===Serial Cable to PC===
To use a TPDD emulator, you need a 9-pin female null-modem serial cable.

To connect a WP-2 to a PC with a real com port, you can use a DE9F to DE9F null-modem cable:
:https://www.electronics123.com/shop/serf2f6-cable-serial-null-modem-6-de9f-to-de9f-5239
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00QM8ZP5E
:https://amazon.com/dp/B00006B8BJ

To connect to a standard usb-serial adapter with DE9M connector, assuming the usb-serial adapter has a few feet of usb cable, you can use a DE9F-DE9F mini null-modem adapter instead of a serial cable.
:https://amazon.com/dp/B075XGRLXW

To connect directly to a PC usb port in a single dedicated-purpose cable with no adapters:
:https://amazon.com/dp/B07DRHB264
:https://amazon.com/dp/B01MY9INHL
:https://amazon.com/dp/B008634VJY

Model 100

2026-03-10T16:27:05Z

Bkw: /* System ROM */

===Intro===
[https://youtu.be/l2TiKFBS3LY Sales Training Video]

===Manuals===
[[Model 100 Manuals]]

===RAM===
[[Model 100 RAM]]

===Serial Cable===
[[Model_T_Serial_Cable]]

===Parallel able===
[[Model_T_Parallel_Cable]]

===Barcode Wand===
[[BCR_PORT]]

===RAM Expansion===
[[PG Designs M100 RAM Expansion|PG Designs]]

===System ROM===
[[Model_T_Y2K|Y2K Patch]] 
[[https://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=M100/T102_Hardware_scrolling_patch Hardware Scrolling Patch]] 
[[https://sarahkmarr.com/retromodel100.html LibROM]] 
[[FlexROM_100]]

===Option ROM===
[[Model 100 Option ROM pinout|Pinout]] 
[[REX]] 
[[Teeprom]]

===Disk===
[[TPDD|Tandy Portable Disk Drive]] 
[[Disk/Video Interface]] 
[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1V_0imPo_JmF8xKWGJLOlfmnWdGPz5k-A Remote Disk] 

=Software=
[[Text_Sweeper]]

=Other resources=
[https://archive.org/details/M100SIG The M100 SIG Archive]

Teeprom

2026-02-26T02:50:54Z

Bkw: /* Sources */

Teeprom

2026-02-26T02:44:47Z

Bkw: /* Parts */

<gallery>
Teeprom.jpg
Teeprom_6.jpg
Teeprom_7.jpg
Teeprom_8.jpg
Teeprom_9.jpg
Teeprom_10.jpg
</gallery>
[https://photos.app.goo.gl/aicpPgKjzFoJweb8A More Pictures]

== Parts ==
PCB & Carrier: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Teeprom___Writable_option_rom_for_TRS_80_Model_100__102__200.html 
BOM: https://www.digikey.com/short/thq5fbr0 


== Programming ==
To write the eeprom, you need:
* Programmer such as [http://autoelectric.cn/EN/TL866_main.html TL866]
* SOIC-28 test clip such as [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=pomona+5437&ia=web Pomona 5437], [https://duckduckgo.com/?q="923660-28" AP/3M 923660-28], [https://duckduckgo.com/?q="923665-28" AP/3M 923665-28]
* [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adam-tech/ICS-328-T/2057-ICS-328-T-ND/9832859 dip-28 socket]
* 28 [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRV92ZB/ jumper wires] with male pins on one end and female Dupont style sockets on the other end.
* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhU01uYjFYNnpkTmM rom image files]

Put the female ends of the wires onto the test clip. 
Put the male ends of the wires into the dip28 socket. 
Put the dip28 socket into the programmer. 
Remove the Teeprom from the Model 100/102/200 
Clip the test clip onto the chip on the Teeprom module.

== 4ROM ==
4-bank module that fits in the socket and holds 4 rom images.

https://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom/blob/master/4ROM.md

<gallery>
4ROM_10.jpg
4ROM_11.jpg
</gallery>

== Sources ==
The PCB is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom 
The carrier is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Molex78802_Module

If you want to get the carrier printed by another service, get the STL file from the github repo and upload it to any other appropriate service such as [http://www.weerg.com Weerg], [https://craftcloud3d.com/ CraftCloud], etc.

It's important to use the appropriate printing technology for this part. Currently the only commonly available / practical printing method that is both accurate enough and produces a functionally strong enough part is [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=SLS+printing SLS]. Print with any other method at your own risk. Some notes about the common options:
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=FDM+printing FDM / Fused Deposition]: Essentially not printable by FDM. I have managed to print this on my own FDM printer (Creality CR-10S). It was just barely accurate enough to fit, but too weak. Broke quickly.
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=SLA+printing SLA / Stereo Lithography]: Prints extremely accurately and would fit perfect, but is too fragile. Might have luck wth one of the fancy new tough resins, but not with standard resin.
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=MJF+printing MJF / Multjet Fusion]: Not accurate enough. I tried several times from ShapeWays. Looks almost perfect visually, doesn't fit well enough.

Some print services offer extra high resolution options for their SLS printing. Sculpteo offers a 60um option which is about twice as high resolution as normal. This does come out very nice, but isn't necessary. The Standard SLS raw nylon 100-120um from Sculpteo, or the standard/cheapest option from Shapeways, is already perfect.

Some print services offer dye and other post-processing options. Be careful with those as they can change the final fit. Raw nylon with or without plain dye coloring finish is always fine. Sculpteo also offers some gloss and paint finishes. I have not tried any of those yet. The added layer of paint may possibly cause a problem.

PCB ordering notes 
Min Track/Spacing: 6/6mil - On PCBWAY the ordering page may come up with 5/5 or even 4/4 pre-selected, rasing the cost a lot, but this board does not actually have any such narrow traces or gaps. Just manually switch it to 6/6 
Solder Mask: Any, but some colors result in either higher cost or longer wait time. The "yellow" color is not really yellow. It's more like a clear coat that looks orange-yellow just from the copper. 
Surface Finish: ENIG

Teeprom

2026-02-26T02:44:08Z

Bkw: /* Parts */

<gallery>
Teeprom.jpg
Teeprom_6.jpg
Teeprom_7.jpg
Teeprom_8.jpg
Teeprom_9.jpg
Teeprom_10.jpg
</gallery>
[https://photos.app.goo.gl/aicpPgKjzFoJweb8A More Pictures]

== Parts ==
PCB & Carrier: [https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Teeprom___Writable_option_rom_for_TRS_80_Model_100__102__200.html PCBWAY] 
BOM: https://www.digikey.com/short/thq5fbr0 


== Programming ==
To write the eeprom, you need:
* Programmer such as [http://autoelectric.cn/EN/TL866_main.html TL866]
* SOIC-28 test clip such as [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=pomona+5437&ia=web Pomona 5437], [https://duckduckgo.com/?q="923660-28" AP/3M 923660-28], [https://duckduckgo.com/?q="923665-28" AP/3M 923665-28]
* [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adam-tech/ICS-328-T/2057-ICS-328-T-ND/9832859 dip-28 socket]
* 28 [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRV92ZB/ jumper wires] with male pins on one end and female Dupont style sockets on the other end.
* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhU01uYjFYNnpkTmM rom image files]

Put the female ends of the wires onto the test clip. 
Put the male ends of the wires into the dip28 socket. 
Put the dip28 socket into the programmer. 
Remove the Teeprom from the Model 100/102/200 
Clip the test clip onto the chip on the Teeprom module.

== 4ROM ==
4-bank module that fits in the socket and holds 4 rom images.

https://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom/blob/master/4ROM.md

<gallery>
4ROM_10.jpg
4ROM_11.jpg
</gallery>

== Sources ==
The PCB is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom 
The carrier is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Molex78802_Module

If you want to get the carrier printed by another service, get the STL file from the github repo and upload it to any other appropriate service such as [http://www.weerg.com Weerg], [https://craftcloud3d.com/ CraftCloud], etc.

It's important to use the appropriate printing technology for this part. Currently the only commonly available / practical printing method that is both accurate enough and produces a functionally strong enough part is [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=SLS+printing SLS]. Print with any other method at your own risk. Some notes about the common options:
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=FDM+printing FDM / Fused Deposition]: Essentially not printable by FDM. I have managed to print this on my own FDM printer (Creality CR-10S). It was just barely accurate enough to fit, but too weak. Broke quickly.
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=SLA+printing SLA / Stereo Lithography]: Prints extremely accurately and would fit perfect, but is too fragile. Might have luck wth one of the fancy new tough resins, but not with standard resin.
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=MJF+printing MJF / Multjet Fusion]: Not accurate enough. I tried several times from ShapeWays. Looks almost perfect visually, doesn't fit well enough.

Some print services offer extra high resolution options for their SLS printing. Sculpteo offers a 60um option which is about twice as high resolution as normal. This does come out very nice, but isn't necessary. The Standard SLS raw nylon 100-120um from Sculpteo, or the standard/cheapest option from Shapeways, is already perfect.

Some print services offer dye and other post-processing options. Be careful with those as they can change the final fit. Raw nylon with or without plain dye coloring finish is always fine. Sculpteo also offers some gloss and paint finishes. I have not tried any of those yet. The added layer of paint may possibly cause a problem.

PCB ordering notes 
Min Track/Spacing: 6/6mil - On PCBWAY the ordering page may come up with 5/5 or even 4/4 pre-selected, rasing the cost a lot, but this board does not actually have any such narrow traces or gaps. Just manually switch it to 6/6 
Solder Mask: Any, but some colors result in either higher cost or longer wait time. The "yellow" color is not really yellow. It's more like a clear coat that looks orange-yellow just from the copper. 
Surface Finish: ENIG

Model I

2026-02-17T18:38:55Z

Bkw: /* PlayCAS */

==LNW==
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhWlc4REx5T3A4cGc?resourcekey=0-BoZ5BNRh1vwWtYDmrcjB5g&usp=drive_link

==IM-2==
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhWUFxYjEzdDlFaDg?resourcekey=0-Be3-dkacb-A3SMwIkVZoAg&usp=drive_link

==MISE==
http://bartlettlabs.com/MISE/index.html

https://github.com/bkw777/MISE-enclosure

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1511122

==MIRE==
http://bartlettlabs.com/MIRE/index.html

==PlayCAS==
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhQTVHM1k3N0VILUk?resourcekey=0-OCh8tB88N9SFK-2CWPU2oA&usp=drive_link

http://youtu.be/XfTVo1Qp1WU

Model I

2026-02-17T18:38:48Z

Bkw: /* PlayCAS */

Model I

2026-02-17T18:38:40Z

Bkw: /* PlayCAS */

Model I

2026-02-17T18:38:03Z

Bkw: /* LNW */

==LNW==
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhWlc4REx5T3A4cGc?resourcekey=0-BoZ5BNRh1vwWtYDmrcjB5g&usp=drive_link

==IM-2==
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhWUFxYjEzdDlFaDg?resourcekey=0-Be3-dkacb-A3SMwIkVZoAg&usp=drive_link

==MISE==
http://bartlettlabs.com/MISE/index.html

https://github.com/bkw777/MISE-enclosure

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1511122

==MIRE==
http://bartlettlabs.com/MIRE/index.html

==PlayCAS==
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhQTVHM1k3N0VILUk

http://youtu.be/XfTVo1Qp1WU

Model I

2026-02-17T18:37:07Z

Bkw: /* IM-2 */

==LNW==
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhWlc4REx5T3A4cGc

==IM-2==
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhWUFxYjEzdDlFaDg?resourcekey=0-Be3-dkacb-A3SMwIkVZoAg&usp=drive_link

==MISE==
http://bartlettlabs.com/MISE/index.html

https://github.com/bkw777/MISE-enclosure

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1511122

==MIRE==
http://bartlettlabs.com/MIRE/index.html

==PlayCAS==
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhQTVHM1k3N0VILUk

http://youtu.be/XfTVo1Qp1WU

File:Pgdesigns6.jpg

2025-12-16T16:52:29Z

Bkw:

File:Pgdesigns5.jpg

2025-12-16T16:52:17Z

Bkw:

PG Designs M100 RAM Expansion

2025-12-16T16:51:42Z

Bkw: /* Intro */

==Intro==
PG Designs made several ram expansion boards for Model 100 that ranged from 32K to 224K. 
These devices added extra ram to a Model 100 in the form of 32K "banks", where each bank was essentially a whole separate computer. You use the extra ram by switching from one bank to another, and while in one bank you generally only have access to the files in that bank. It's almost as if you put one Model 100 away and pulled out a different one. The PG Designs ram adds to the original ram inside the Model 100, so if you have 32K installed in the Model 100, and add the the 224K PG Designs, you have a total of 256K available, in the form of 8 banks, where bank 1 is the original internal ram, and banks 2-8 are provided by the expansion.

<gallery>
pgdesigns1.jpg
pgdesigns2.jpg
pgdesigns3.jpg
pgdesigns4.jpg
pgdesigns5.jpg
pgdesigns6.jpg
</gallery>

==Files==
:[[File:PG_Design_Expansion_RAM_for_TRS-80_Model_100_-_1984_32k.pdf]]
:[[File:PG_Design_Expansion_RAM_for_TRS-80_Model_100_-_1985_64k.pdf]]
:[[File:PG_Design_0MENU_2.01.zip]]



==Installing the bank-switch utility==

Back up any files you care about currently on the M100.

Hard reset the M100 (wipe the ram): CTRL+BREAK+RESET

Use a [[TPDD client]] (like TS-DOS) and a [[TPDD server]] (like dl2 or laddie) to copy <code>MENU.BA</code> to the Model 100.
:(You can't convert this to ascii basic and transfer it via TELCOM like you could any other BASIC program. It must be treated like a binary and copied only via some binary-safe method. This could be cassette or xmodem etc, but TPDD is the most convenient.)
:example using [https://github.com/bkw777/dl2 dl2]: <code>$ dl -v -b TEENY.100 && dl -v -u</code>
:Then on the 100 use TEENY to copy MENU.BA
::The command in TEENY would be <code>L MENU .BA</code>

Run MENU.BA
:Answer the prompts about which bank you are currently in and how many banks your unit has.
::After the power-cycle, you are in bank 1.
::If your unit has 7 ram chips (3 are hidden in between the two pcbs), that is 8 banks, the Model 100's original 32k plus 7 more banks of 32k.
:Ignore the “FC error in 4” error that flashes by. It's not really an error in this case.

At this point the program is installed, though you can't see it. 
It is an invisible program called <code>0MENU</code>. (number zero, not letter oh)

To run it, type <code>0MENU</code> at the main menu and press Enter.

You should now see a new modified main menu, and you can switch to another bank.

Once you switch to some other bank, it will be a new empty bank that doesn't have <code>0MENU</code> or anything else in it.

To get back to bank 1 or any other bank, you can repeat the 0MENU install in the new bank, and all other banks. 
With 0MENU installed in all banks, then you can switch directly from any bank to any other.

You can also just power-cycle the machine and that will always put you back to bank 1. 
Since bank 1 has 0MENU installed, and you can always get to bank 1 by power-cycle, you could get by with only the bank 1 install.

==Usage==
0MENU also allows you to copy files from any bank that has 0MENU to any other bank that has 0MENU.

You can use INVISO.BA to make the program visible (MENU.BA), or invisible again (0MENU).

==TODO==
Create an mp3 cassette version of MENU.BA.

Create a 0MENU loader that can be bootstrapped directly like teeny/ts-dos/etc?

==Credits / References==
Pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/HgBp1QsyNhM4JUg78

:There are several bits of info about the PG Designs ram expansion in the [https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG M100SIG] archive.
:Here are some examples, there may be even more.

:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/BANKSW.100 Lib-09-PERIFERALS/BANKSW.100]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG-TIP.000 Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG-TIP.000]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG-TIP.001 Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG-TIP.001]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG-TIP.002 Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG-TIP.002]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG64K.DVI Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PG64K.DVI]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PGMENU.100 Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PGMENU.100]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PGMUNK.TIP Lib-09-PERIFERALS/PGMUNK.TIP]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/RAMEXP.THD Lib-09-PERIFERALS/RAMEXP.THD]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/DSKMGR.PGD Lib-09-PERIFERALS/DSKMGR.PGD]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/BIGRAM.THD LIB-13-REVIEWS/BIGRAM.THD]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/BIGRAM.REV LIB-13-REVIEWS/BIGRAM.REV]
:[https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/PGD64K.REV LIB-13-REVIEWS/PGD64K.REV]

http://www.tmne.com/downloads.html (see floppyco.txt from the menu_ba.zip here)

http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?direction=0&order=&directory=Steve%20Adolph/MENU%20add%20on%20for%20M100%20and%20T102& 0menu v1.3

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhZTY1a3VXVFRUQmM?resourcekey=0-DIPxlRnOkDgk9HVRscvFEw 0menu v2.01 (from Richard Hanson below)

http://www.club100.org/library/libups.html See the RICHARD HANSON section
:PG Design Data Transfer Utility v2.01 for 32K - 224K RAM Expansion units.
:Please note: The MENU.BA file is not in ASCII due to embeded machine language code. You must download with xmodem or greater. The INVISO.BA file is ASCII.
:[http://www.club100.org/library/ups/menu.ba MENU.BA]
:[http://www.club100.org/library/ups/inviso.ba INVISO.BA]

Apparently these were also sold under the name Enterprise Systems? Maybe re-seller? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pJcSvFAw4smcPIzbVWhnBLERoaKb3xqX/view

Compatibility issue, and work-around, with the stock Tandy dos for TPDD and TPDD-2: http://www.ordersomewherechaos.com/rosso/fetish/m102/web100/docs/pdd2-dos-patch.html

NEC:PC-8300:keyboard fabric

2025-12-13T14:34:55Z

Bkw:

This is a stencil to cut a new non-woven fabric sheet that lays on top of the keyboard PCB of an NEC PC-8300.

The material is called "non-woven fabric" and can usually be found any place that sells fabric.

Original is the .fig drawn in [https://mcj.sourceforge.net/ xfig]. 
The others are converted from that.

[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.fig]] 
[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.eps]] 
[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.pdf]]

File:Pc-8300 keyboard nonwoven sheet.pdf

2025-12-13T14:25:57Z

Bkw:

File:Pc-8300 keyboard nonwoven sheet.eps

2025-12-13T14:25:38Z

Bkw:

File:Pc-8300 keyboard nonwoven sheet.fig

2025-12-13T14:24:58Z

Bkw:

NEC:PC-8300:keyboard fabric

2025-12-13T14:24:18Z

Bkw:

[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.fig]] 
[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.eps]] 
[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.pdf]]

NEC:PC-8300:keyboard fabric

2025-12-13T14:24:02Z

Bkw: Created page with "file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.fig file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.eps file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.pdf"

[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.fig]]
[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.eps]]
[[file:pc-8300_keyboard_nonwoven_sheet.pdf]]

PC-8300

2025-12-13T14:21:30Z

Bkw: Bkw moved page PC-8300 to NEC:PC-8300

#REDIRECT [[NEC:PC-8300]]

NEC:PC-8300

2025-12-13T14:21:30Z

Bkw: Bkw moved page PC-8300 to NEC:PC-8300

NEC PC-8300

[[NEC:PC-8300:keyboard_fabric]]

NEC:PC-8300

2025-12-13T14:21:02Z

Bkw: Created page with "NEC PC-8300 NEC:PC-8300:keyboard_fabric"

NEC PC-8300

[[NEC:PC-8300:keyboard_fabric]]

REX

2025-10-23T18:22:54Z

Bkw:

REX is an on-board virtual option rom library and ram backup device designed by Steven Adolph.

There are a few different types of REX now: [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REXclassic REX Classic], [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REXsharp REX#], and [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REXCPM REXCPM].

REX# and REX Classic provide mostly the same functionality.

* On-board, software controlled, multiple option rom library. Option roms are loaded from a PC over serial cable, and activated/selected/deleted all from software. 
* On-board multiple full ram image backup & restore. You can snapshot your entire system and restore it later. This can serve as both a recovery after a hard reset or crash or total battery drain, or can be used merely for more storage like ram expansion banks, where you keep more apps & data in multiple ram images than the computer can hold by itself, and switch between them.

The differences are:

:REX# is newer and currently sold and supported by the creator. The firmware and software are newer and receiving more updates.

:REX Classic provides one feature that REX# does not, which is the [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_ROM_Management_Feature Main ROM Management Feature]. It allows you to boot from a main rom image on the REX instead of the internal main rom, and manage & modify the main rom image purly from software once the hardware install is done one time. See also [[FlexROM_100]] which adds more hook-up convenience and a 3rd fall-back boot option still without re-opening the case even if you bork both main rom images in the REX.

REXCPM is a very different beast. The headline feature of REXCPM is CP/M. It provides a way to run CP/M on the 100. 

:It also provides all of the REX# functions, at least outwardly. But the basic REX/REX# functionality isn't really the same because it is a purely volatile RAM device. When it loses power, it loses it's virtual "firmware", rom images, and ram backup images.

:You can still use a REXCPM to recover from a hard reset, as long as the computers memory battery hasn't died and as long as the REXCPM hasn't been removed from the computer for more than a few minutes. But if the computer sits on the shelf for more than a few weeks or if you remove the REXCPM from the machine for more than a few minutes, you will need a PC and serial connection and go through the entire setup process again.

:The contrast is, the old REX and new REX# are flash devices which never die. They are actually useful for storing rom images and ram backup images, and you can restore from them with nothing else needed even after the computer has fully died. For instance you don't have to bootstrap over serial to get TS-DOS installed, you have it in rom the same as if you had an original TS-DOS option rom.

:There is a [https://github.com/bkw777/REXCPM_UPS battery backup for REXCPM], but Steve didn't make it and doesn't sell them. You have to buy the parts and build it yourself. But it adds a battery to the REXCPM and allows the REXCPM to be removed from the computer and still retain it's data for at least a few years.

:[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa6QPHD6qzw TechTangents vdeo on how to install REXCPM]

[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX REX Documentation]

[[Building a REX|Build your own REX Classic]]

[[ModelT_roms|roms]]

REX

2025-10-23T18:22:30Z

Bkw:

REX is an on-board virtual option rom library and ram backup device designed by Steven Adolph.

There are a few different types of REX now: [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REXclassic REX Classic], [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REXsharp REX#], and [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REXCPM REXCPM].

REX# and REX Classic provide mostly the same functionality.

* On-board, software controlled, multiple option rom library. Option roms are loaded from a PC over serial cable, and activated/selected/deleted all from software. 
* On-board multiple full ram image backup & restore. You can snapshot your entire system and restore it later. This can serve as both a recovery after a hard reset or crash or total battery drain, or can be used merely for more storage like ram expansion banks, where you keep more apps & data in multiple ram images than the computer can hold by itself, and switch between them.

The differences are:

:REX# is newer and currently sold and supported by the creator. The firmware and software are newer and receiving more updates.

:REX Classic provides one feature that REX# does not, which is the [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_ROM_Management_Feature Main ROM Management Feature]. It allows you to boot from a main rom image on the REX instead of the internal main rom, and manage & modify the main rom image purly from software once the hardware install is done one time. See also [[FlexROM_100]] which adds more hook-up convenience and a 3rd fall-back boot option still without re-opening the case even if you bork both main rom images in the REX.

REXCPM is a very different beast. The headline feature of REXCPM is CP/M. It provides a way to run CP/M on the 100. 

:It also provides all of the REX# functions, at least outwardly. But the basic REX/REX# functionality isn't really the same because it is a purely volatile RAM device. When it loses power, it loses it's virtual "firmware", rom images, and ram backup images.

:You can still use a REXCPM to recover from a hard reset, as long as the computers memory battery hasn't died and as long as the REXCPM hasn't been removed from the computer for more than a few minutes. But if the computer sits on the shelf for more than a few weeks or if you remove the REXCPM from the machine for more than a few minutes, you will need a PC and serial connection and go through the entire setup process again.

:The contrast is, the old REX and new REX# are flash devices which never die. They are actually useful for storing rom images and ram backup images, and you can restore from them with nothing else needed even after the computer has fully died. For instance you don't have to bootstrap over serial to get TS-DOS installed, you have it in rom the same as if you had an original TS-DOS option rom.

:There is a [https://github.com/bkw777/REXCPM_UPS battery backup for REXCPM], but Steve didn't make it and doesn't sell them. You have to buy the parts and build it yourself. But it adds a battery to the REXCPM and allows the REXCPM to be removed from the computer and still retain it's data for at least a few years.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa6QPHD6qzw TechTangents vdeo on how to install REXCPM]

[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX REX Documentation]

[[Building a REX|Build your own REX Classic]]

[[ModelT_roms|roms]]

Model T Y2K

2025-10-23T18:18:52Z

Bkw: /* General */

"Model T computer" system rom Y2K patches

==General==
All the KC-85 clones have the same routine holding the century digits, though appearing at different addresses in different system roms.

A Y2K patching rule that applies the same to all machines is to just search for a certain string of 6 bytes wherever it happens to appear, and edit.

Using the hex-editor of your choice:
:{|
|-
|style="text-align: right;| Search for this sequence: || <code>23 36 31 23 36 39</code>
|-
|style="text-align: right;| Replace it with this: || <code>23 36 {{highlight|32}} 23 36 {{highlight|30}}</code>
|}

==TRS-80 Model 100==
:0x5A53 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x5A56 0x39 -> 0x30

[[file:TRS-80_Model_100.orig.bin]] 
[[file:TRS-80_Model_100.y2k.bin]]

Most Model 100's have a non-standard pinout for the system rom socket. 
If your original system rom has the part number LH535618 (most will), then you can use [[FlexROM_100]] (optionally with [[Building a REX|REX Classic]]) to install the patched ROM.

If you have a late model without LH535618, then you can use a plain 27C256, or [[FlexROM_102]] (optionally with [[Building a REX|REX Classic]]), or [[28C256_to_27C256]].

==TANDY Model 102==
US 
:0x5A53 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x5A56 0x39 -> 0x30

[[file:TANDY_Model_102.us.orig.bin]] 
[[file:TANDY_Model_102.us.y2k.bin]]

UK 
:0x5A53 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x5A56 0x39 -> 0x30

[[file:TANDY_Model_102.uk.orig.bin]] 
[[file:TANDY_Model_102.uk.y2k.bin]]

You can use a plain 27C256, or [[FlexROM_102]] (optionally with [[Building_a_REX|REX Classic]]), or [[28C256_to_27C256]] to install the patched rom.

==TANDY Model 200==
Model 200 system rom spans 2 chips, 32k at M15, and 8k at M13. Only M15 needs to be modified.

:0x6DF1 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x6DF3 0x39 -> 0x30

[[file:TANDY_Model_200.M15.orig.bin]] 
[[file:TANDY_Model_200.M15.y2k.bin]]

[[file:TANDY_Model_200.M13.orig.bin]] (the 8k 2nd rom chip is not modified, included here just for completeness)

You can use a plain 27C256, or [[28C256_to_27C256]], or [[FlexROM_200]] (optionally with [[Building_a_REX|REX Classic]]) to install the patched rom.

==Olivetti M10==
North America:
:0x5A5B 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x5A5E 0x39 -> 0x30
[[File:M10_System_ROM_NorthAmerica.orig.bin]] 
[[File:M10_System_ROM_NorthAmerica.y2k.bin]]

Europe:
:0x5774 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x5779 0x39 -> 0x30
[[File:M10_System_ROM_EU.orig.bin]] 
[[File:M10_System_ROM_EU.y2k.bin]]

You can use a plain 27C256, or [[28C256_to_27C256]] to install the patched rom.

==Kyotronic KC-85==
:0x575E 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x5761 0x39 -> 0x30

[[File:KC-85.orig.bin]] 
[[File:KC-85.y2k.bin]]

You can use a plain 27C256, or [[28C256_to_27C256]] to install the patched rom.

==NEC PC-8201A, PC-8300==
To change the "19" in "1983", it's the same rule for NEC as all the rest, but there is also a second place to change the "83". 

:0x5D91 0x31 -> 0x32
:0x5D94 0x39 -> 0x30
:0x7E30 0x33 -> 0x30
:0x7E31 0x38 -> 0x30

[[file:NEC_PC-8201A.orig.bin]] 
[[file:NEC_PC-8201A.y2k.bin]] 
For PC-8201/PC8201A you can use a plain 27C256 or a [[28C256_to_27C256]] to install the patched rom.

[[file:NEC_PC-8300.orig.bin]] 
[[file:NEC_PC-8300.y2k.bin]] 
For PC-8300 you can use [[FLASH_23C1000]] to install the patched rom.

=References=
http://www.muppetlabs.com/~chris/model100/y2000.html 
https://www.web8201.net/default.asp?content=NECY2K.asp

FlexROM 100

2025-10-23T18:17:54Z

Bkw: /* What Is This? */

=EEPROM adapter for TRS-80 Model 100 system ROM=
With REX main rom support.

If you have a Model 100, and the main rom is NOT a LH535618, then use [[FlexROM_102]] instead.

<gallery>
FlexROM_100-04.png
FlexROM_100-02.png
FlexROM_100-01.png
FlexROM_100-06.png
FlexROM_100-07.jpg
FlexROM_100-08.jpg
FlexROM_100-09.jpg
FlexROM_100-10.jpg
FlexROM_100-11.jpg
FlexROM_100-12.jpg
FlexROM_100-13.jpg
FlexROM_100-14.jpg
FlexROM_100-15.jpg
FlexROM_100-16.jpg
FlexROM_100-17.jpg
FlexROM_100-18.jpg
FlexROM_100-19.jpg
FlexROM_100-20.jpg
FlexROM_100-21.jpg
FlexROM_100-22.jpg
</gallery>

There are 2 versions of this. The original version uses an EEPROM part: 28C256 
The new version uses a flash part: 29F010 (SST39SF010A) 

===EEPROM Version===
[https://github.com/bkw777/aDIPters#flexrom_100 FlexROM_100 PCB & BOM] 
[https://github.com/bkw777/aDIPters#flexrom_100-programming-adapter FlexROM_100 programming adapter]

Some more assembly and usage details: https://photos.app.goo.gl/BkHg3CCciFGxzECW6

The current version doesn't exactly match the pictures above, because now there is a programming adapter, and you don't need an SOIC-28 test clip and ribbon cables any more.

===FLASH version===
28C256 is over $10. SST39SF010A is under $2.

[https://github.com/bkw777/aDIPters#flashrom_100 FlashROM_100] 
[https://github.com/bkw777/aDIPters#tsop FlashROM_100 PCB & BOM] 
[https://github.com/bkw777/aDIPters#flashrom_100-programming-adapter FlashROM_100 programming adapter]

== What Is This? ==
This is an adapter board that allows plugging a standard eeprom into the Model 100's non-standad pinout system rom socket.

Additionally, it provides a connection point for a [[REX]] to use REX's [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_ROM_Management_Feature Main ROM Management Feature] without having to remove the internal rom.

There are a few reasons why it might be nice to be able to edit or replace the system rom on any computer, including a Model 100. 
In the case of the Model 100, the simplest reason is just the [[Model_T_Y2K|Y2K Patch]]. 
But there are other possible things like fixing bugs or even customizing the rom software. 
One awesome example is [https://sarahkmarr.com/retromodel100.html LibROM].

This board allows replacing the system rom in two different ways, directly, and via REX.

Most TRS-80 Model 100's have a main system rom that has a non-standard pinout, and so it's impossible to replace the system rom without some kind of adapter. So first off, this board serves as a pinout adapter between a standard 28C256 and the non-standard M100 pinout.

Another way to run a custom rom on a Model 100 is by using a REX with it's main rom feature.

That normally requires removing the original main rom and running a wire from one of the pins in the empty rom socket out to a connection point on the REX. This means the Model 100 can no longer run without the REX installed, and the Primary rom image in the REX must be treated very carefully because if it is ever corrupted or non-functional, then the only way to make the computer run again is to either re-load a good rom image into the REX using some other working Model 100, or open the Model 100's case and reinstall the original rom long enough to use it to re-load the REX with a good rom image.

With this board, you can have a built-in rom like normal, AND at the same time use the software-updatable main rom from a REX, and switch between them without having to open the computer case again.

The board itself is re-writable too, although that does require opening the case to get physical access to it again.

== Building ==

Building is mostly straightforward. You can see everything just by looking at [https://photos.app.goo.gl/BkHg3CCciFGxzECW6 these pictures].

The only notes to add are what's the best order to proceed and why, and the best way to do the dip-28 legs.

If using a solding iron (rather than hot air or a reflow oven), go in this order:
:1: Both resistors first
:2: /CS and PROGRAM pin headers, flush-cut the posts on the bottom of the PCB
:3: Legs
:4: 28C256

How to do the legs.

:Cut two sections of 14 legs off the leadframe strip. The BOM above specifies a single 28-pin strip, so if you go that, just cut that in half.

:Use ordinary scissors to cut the entire fork contact end off the tops of the SIL (sigle in-line) pins. Try to cut in as straight a line as possible, following the ends of the legs where they widen into the SIL fork contacts, but about 1mm away from the end, well into the straight thin part of the leg so you are sure that the new cut ends of the legs definitely won't end up with little "T" shapes on the ends. If you cut too close to the ends where the leg gets wider, then the little T bit that you will get on the ends of the legs will prevent the leg from fitting into the holes in the board, and youl'll have to trim the legs down, but it will be harder to cut the legs evenly after the original leadframe has been cut away and the legs are all loose on that end.

:Insert the remaining "comb" into the pcb from the top, and pust the legs down until the legs are about 5mm long out of the bottom of the pcb. This will be about 1/2 way.

:Before soldering any legs, bear in mind: Only touch the soldering iron to the leg sticking out of the TOP of the pcb. Don't touch the bottom side of the pcb at all. And don't add so much solder that it flows down and builds up on the bottom leg. The legs are tinned and the solder WANTS to wet and flow along the entire surface, so look at the bottom leg to make sure that isn't happening. The holes are a very close/tight fit to the legs and so it only takes a very little solder to do the job. If you DO get solder build-up on any legs, use flux and solder wick to clean t off, and make sure to do this BEFORE cutting off leadframe. Once you cut the leadframe away, the individual legs are only held in place by the solder. If you heat a leg up after that, the leg will fall out of neat lignment. You'll have to hold it in place with tweezers or a DIP socket or something while touching the heat to it to put it back into alignment. With the leadframe still attached, there is no problem. You can heat the leg up as much as you want while wicking away solder to clean it thouroughly, and then solder the through-hole again.

:Solder one end leg. Adjust the opposite end leg so the row of legs is parallel to the pcb and all legs are the same length, and solder the opposite end leg so the row is now held in place. Solder all the middle legs.

:Examine the legs on the bottom side of the pcb to ensure that the lengths are all even, and ensure that none of the legs has solder build-up on it's surfaces. If any legs have thick solder build-up on them, use flux and solder wick to clean it off now while the leadframe is still attached to all the legs.

:Only after you are definitely happy with the legs, use flush-cutters cut the tops of the legs and the leadframe away.

Finally install the 28C256 using the drag technique.

== Programming ==
You can write the 28C256 before soldering, using your eprom programmer's ordinary SOIC-28 adapter.

You can also write the 28C256 after soldering, but you will need either a SOIC-28 test clip and jumper wires, or the programming adapter above. The programming adapter is cheaper an more convenient, even though you have to build it.

With a test clip or the programming adapter, you can also write/re-write the chip after soldering the chip to the board.

The following directions will make several assumptions:
* Using a TL-866 programmer
* Using the "minipro" program on Linux
* Using the "hexedit" program on Linux
* Using a Tandy 102 system rom image (It fixes a few minor issues from the original Model 100 rom, yet runs the same on a Model 100)
* Using a REX and the REX main rom management feature

To write the eeprom, you need:
* EPROM Programmer such as [http://autoelectric.cn/EN/TL866_main.html TL866]

* FlexROM_100 programming adapter
 (OR 
 SOIC-28 test clip such as [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=pomona+5437 Pomona 5437] or [https://duckduckgo.com/?q="923660-28" AP/3M 923660-28] 
 [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adam-tech/ICS-328-T/2057-ICS-328-T-ND/9832859 dip-28 socket] 
 28 [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRV92ZB/ male to female "dupont" jumper wires])

* [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/d/d1/R_M100.BR M100] or [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/c/cb/R_T102.BR T102] sytem rom image file.
:FlexROM_100 is only for Model 100, but you can run either the M100 or T102 rom in a M100. The T102 rom fixes a few minor issues from the M100 rom, yet runs and works the same on the M100 hardware.
:These two rom images are already patched for Y2K, and with the REX detection signature. We will be editing the rom to actually undo the REX signature from one copy, while leaving the Y2K part.

(if using a test clip instead of the programming adapter)
Assemble the test clip cable:
:Put the female ends of the wires onto the test clip.
:Put the male ends of the wires into the dip28 socket.
:Put the dip28 socket into the ZIF socket on the programmer.

Download a system rom image and make 3 copies of it
<pre><nowiki>
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/c/cb/R_T102.BR
$ cp R_T102.BR T102_P.BR
$ cp R_T102.BR T102_S.BR
$ cp R_T102.BR T102_M.BR
</nowiki></pre>

:T102_P.BR is for the REX Primary main rom slot. The filename for this must be 6 characters or less, plus ".BR"
:T102_S.BR is for the REX Secondary main rom slot. The filename for this must be 6 characters or less, plus ".BR"
:T102_M.BR is for the 28C256 on the FlexROM. The filename for this doesn't actually matter.

Hex-edit the three rom images.
:For the internal main rom, T102_M.BR, change "Menu" to "MENU" at 0x03
:This reverses the REX signature so that when the M100 boots from the FlexROM, REXMGR does not think it's really running from one of the primary or secondary rom images in the REX.
:{|
|-
| || <code>$ hexedit T102_M.BR</code>
|-
| before: || <code>00000000 C3 A7 1B 4D 65 6E 75 00 7E E3 BE C2 46 04 23 E3 ...{{highlight|Menu}}.~...F.#.</code>
|-
| after: || <code>00000000 C3 A7 1B 4D {{highlight|45 4E 55}} 00 7E E3 BE C2 46 04 23 E3 ...{{highlight|MENU}}.~...F.#.</code>
|}

:For the Primary main rom slot in REX, T102_P.BR, change "Software" to "(T102_P)" at 0x7FB5
:{|
|-
| || <code>$ hexedit T102_P.BR</code>
|-
| before: || <code>00007FB0 20 31 30 30 20 53 6F 66 74 77 61 72 65 0D 0A 43 100 {{highlight|Software}}..C</code>
|-
| after: || <code>00007FB0 20 31 30 30 20 {{highlight|28 4D 41 49 4E 31 50 29}} 0D 0A 43 100 {{highlight|(T102_P)}}..C</code>
|}

:For the Secondary main rom slot in REX, T102_S.BR, change "Software" to "(T102_S)" at 0x7FB5
:{|
|-
| || <code>$ hexedit T102_S.BR</code>
|-
| before: || <code>00007FB0 20 31 30 30 20 53 6F 66 74 77 61 72 65 0D 0A 43 100 {{highlight|Software}}..C</code>
|-
| after: || <code>00007FB0 20 31 30 30 20 {{highlight|28 4D 41 49 4E 31 53 29}} 0D 0A 43 100 {{highlight|(T102_S)}}..C</code>
|}

Write the T102_M.BR file to the FlexROM_100:

:Insert the programming adapter into a programmer.
:Insert the FlexROM_100 into the programming adapter.
:Install a shunt onto the PROGRAM pins.

:Use [https://gitlab.com/DavidGriffith/minipro minipro] to program the chip.
:The device type is "AT28C256"
:The file to write is "T102_M.BR"
$ minipro -p "AT28C256" -w T102_M.BR
Found TL866II+ 04.2.110 (0x26e)
Erasing... 0.02Sec OK
Protect off...OK
Writing Code... 6.77Sec OK
Reading Code... 0.50Sec OK
Verification OK
Protect on...OK

Remove the shunt from the PROGRAM pins.

The FlexROM_100 is now ready to install into a Model 100.

== Installing ==
Plug the FlexROM into the system rom socket (M12) in the Model 100, and either install the shunt on the two /CS pins, or install two dupont jumper wires running out to the option rom compartment. Even if you don't have a REX you can install the wires instead of the shunt, to allow for the option to use the REX main rom feature later without having to open the computer case again.

If you installed the shunt instead of the wires, then you are now done. Re-assemble the Model 100 case and use the computer the same as before.

=== REX Main ROM connection ===

The REX connection is optional. If you don't have a REX and don't want wires hanging out in your option-rom compartment, you don't have to install the wires. The BOM includes a shunt. Just install that shunt onto the two /CS pins.

If you do have a REX, or even if you just want to allow for it, install 2 300mm female-female dupont jumper wires on the /CS pins instead of the shunt, and route them out to the option-rom compartment. Pick a neutral color (black/white/gray) for the CS_IN wire, and any other color for the CS_OUT wire. Label the far end of the /CS OUT wire, or just remember that CS_OUT is the colored one.

To use the REX main rom feature, connect the colored or labelled CS_OUT wire to TP1 on the REX. Leave the other wire disconnected in the option rom compartment.

To revert from REX back to the internal rom on the FlexROM_100, connect the two wires in the option rom compartment to each other with a short male-to-male dupont jumper wire.

For all the details about REX and it's main rom management feature, consult the following sources:
:[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX REX Documentation]
:[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_ROM_Management_Feature REX Main ROM Management Feature]
:[[Building a REX]]

== Using ==
Whether you have a REX or not, at first install the short male-to-male dupont jumper wire joining the two wires in the option rom compartment to each other.

If you don't have a REX, then you are now done. With the wires connected to each other in the option rom compartment, the computer boots from the FlexROM. You can use the computer exactly the same as usual, including you can install a ram expansion or a Disk/Video Interface cable on the bus connector, and/or install option roms, Teeprom, or REX in the option rom socket.

The rest of this assumes you DO have a REX. The rest of this is really more about using REX than using FlexROM, but with FlexROM, the directions for REX just slightly different. 
With FlexROM,
:You don't have to be so careful with the primary rom image in the REX, because the system is always self-recoverable.
:You don't connect a wire to one of the pins in the empty main rom socket, instead the FlexROM is installed in the main rm socket and the wire is connected to the pin header on the FlexROM.

Install the REX in the option rom socket as normal, but don't connect any wires to it yet. First we need to load rom images into the primary and secondary slots in the REX, and for that, the computer needs to run from the internal rom. The two wires in the option rom compartment should be connected to each other with the male jumper wire.

Turn the memory power switch on the bottom of the computer ON

Turn the main power switch on the side of the computer ON.

Cold-reset the computer by pressing the Ctrl, Break, and Reset buttons all at the same time.

Connect a [[Model_100_102_200_600_Serial_Cable]] between the Model 100 and a modern pc.

Run [https://github.com/bkw777/dlplus DLPlus] or [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=LaddieCon LaddieAlpha] in the directory containing the primary and secondary rom images prepared earlier (T102_P.BR and T102_S.BR).
<pre>
~/Documents/TRS-80/FlexROM $ dl -v
Using Serial Device: /dev/ttyUSB0
Working In Directory:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
/home/bkw/Documents/TRS-80/FlexROM
total 128
-rw-rw-r-- 1 bkw bkw 32768 Oct 18 2010 R_T102.BR
-rw-rw-r-- 1 bkw bkw 32768 Feb 11 20:46 T102_M.BR
-rw-rw-r-- 1 bkw bkw 32768 Feb 11 22:05 T102_P.BR
-rw-rw-r-- 1 bkw bkw 32768 Feb 11 22:07 T102_S.BR
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Read...
</pre>

On the Model 100:
:Notice that the date on the main menu has the year 2000 instead of 1900. This shows that the computer is running a Y2K patched system rom.

:Launch BASIC.
:Notice that the top line has the word "Software". This shows that the computer is NOT running either of the rom images that were edited to say "(T102_P)" or "(T102_S)".
:Issue the command <code>CALL 63012</code> to activate the REX and install REXMGR.

:Launch REXMGR from the main menu.
:Notice the top line in REXMGR has an "M". This shows that REXMGR does not think the currently running rom was loaded from the REX Primary or Secondary images, which is correct.
:Press TAB until you get the SYS screen.

:Highlight the Primary main rom slot (MAIN1P, on the left) and press F2 to load a rom image into the Primary slot.
:When is says "load from filename:______" type "T102_P" and press Enter.
:This will try to download "T102_P.BR" via [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=TPDD_Protocol TPDD protocol] over the serial port. This is why we have the serial cable connected and dlplus or laddiealpha running on the modern pc.
:When it's done loading, the Primary slot on the left will now say "T102_P" instead of "MAIN1P"

:Highlight the Secondary main rom slot (MAIN1S, on the right) and press F2 to load a rom image into the Secondary slot.
:Highlight the Primary main rom slot (MAIN1P, on the left) and press F2 to load a rom image into the Primary slot.
:When it's done loading, the Secondary slot on the right will now say "T102_S" instead of "MAIN1S"

:Exit REXMGR

Turn off the Model 100.

Remove the male-male jumper wire from the wires in the option-rom compartment.

Connect the /CS OUT wire to the TP1 pin on the REX.

Leave the other wire loose in the compartment. Don't connect it to the TP2 pin. Either remove the male jumer wire from the compartment entirely, or leave the male wire connected to the end of the other wire, and install the shunt on the other end of the male wire to cover it and prevent it from shorting on anything.

Turn on the Model 100.

If you enter BASIC, the top line should now say "(T102_P)". This proves that when the computer powered-on, the FlexROM was disabled and the REX provided the rom instead, and used the Primary slot.

If you enter REXMGR,
:Notice the top line now has a "P" where there was an "M" before. This shows that REXMGR recognizes that the currently running rom was loaded from the REX, and that REX is currently configured to use the Primary image.
:Tab to the SYS screen, highlight the secondary rom image T102_S, and press F3 "Use", exit back to the main menu

Enter BASIC again,
:The top line should now say (T102_S) instead of (T102_P). This shows that we have indeed switched to the secondary rom image.

If you turn off the computer, remove the wire from the REX, re-connect the two wires to each other, either leave the REX installed or remove the REX, and turn the computer on again, and enter BASIC, you'll see the top line has "Software" again. This shows the computer is running the rom from the FlexROM again.