Latest revision as of 13:39, 18 December 2024

Manuals

Operation Manual

Service Manual

ALPS Plotter Engine

The Tandy CGP-115 is based on the same ALPS DPG-1302 plotter engine as several other plotters.

Plotter Models:

ALPS DPG-1302

Aquarius 4-COLOR PRINTER

Astron MCP-40X

Atari 1020

Canon X-710

Casio FA-10

Casio FA-11

Commodore 1520

Convergent Microprinter WP-100

Mattel Aquarius 4615

MCP-40 (not the Oric one)

Olivetti PL 10

Oric MCP-40

Sega SP-400

Sharp CE-1600P

Sharp MZ-1P01

Sharp MZ-1P16

Sharp PC-2500

Silver Reed EB50

Tandy CGP-115

Texas Instruments HX-1000

Vtech Laser PP-40I

There is another version of the same ALPS engine that just takes narrower paper, but is otherwise the same, using the same pens and pinion gears.

Sharp CE-150

Tandy 26-3605

Mitutoyo DP-2

Mitutoyo DP-3

And another version that takes wider paper.

Panasonic Penwriter RK-P400

Sharp CE-515P

Sharp CE-516P

Sony PRN-C41

Pens

A German medical supplies company is manufacturing new pens designed for this plotter mechanism.

They're expensive, especially with the shipping, but, they're new, and you can refill them practically forever for pennies per refill.

https://www.evident-shop.de/en/search?sSearch=stifte

Gears

The pinion/spindle gears on the X and Y motors are made of Nylon, which has shrunk over time, and essentially all of these gears are split by now, or soon will be.

Specs

13 tooth

0.25 modulus

1.5mm bore

4.5mm length

These are the specs to re-create the gear from scratch. For example the FreeCAD model below was made by just plugging those values into the involute gear plugin in FreeCAD.

Sources

The original gears are nylon. You can't get those any more, but you can get two other forms of new gears.

Jeff Birt of the "Hey Birt!" Youtube channel has commissioned some machined brass gears: https://www.soigeneris.com/alps-printer-plotter-mechanism-pinion-gears

You can also get 3d-printed gears: http://shpws.me/Si9K

CAD model source for the 3d-printed gears: https://github.com/bkw777/ALPS_plotter_gears

To install brass gears, I used a small hobby/electronics table-top vise with plastic jaws (Panavise 301) to press the gears onto the motor shafts without deforming the end of the shaft. The rear end of the shaft is very close to the bearing and so you want to be extra careful to avoid even a tiny impreceptible damage to the shape of the shaft. You can remove a thin metal sheet that covers the motors on the back, and that exposes the motors enough to get the corners of the vise jaws on both ends of the motor shaft without having to remove the motors. The jaws on that model of vise are plastic, so they don't harm the motor shaft on the back of the motors. If you use a steel jaw vice, be sure to protect the rear motor shaft from direct metal to metal contact with the vice jaw, to prevent the vise jaw from deforming the motor shaft.

Paper

Specs

plain bond

4.5" wide

7/16" core

up to 3" diameter

160 feet

Original Radio Shack item was 180 feet but that's not a common size. The Original paper may have been a thinner bond too. 160 feet of plain bond does fit in the machine with room to spare. Often the selling sites will list the roll diameter which removes all guessing.

Typical search term: "4.5" bond roll"

http://www.itplanet.com/parts/Star__87999850.htm

https://www.cibowares.com/4-5-x-160-white-bond-1-ply-register-roll-package-of-20/

http://www.sunshinesupport.com/prod/receipt-paper-rolls/1-ply-45-inch-x-165-paper-25-rolls-45165.htm

Refilling Pens

The new pens from the German medical supplies company are pretty expensive considering that they are so small and don’t last very long.

The new pens can be refilled fairly easily with insulin syringes available from local drug stores. Example:

Walgreens item 677232

10-pack, 29 gauge, 0.3mL

super thin syringes for insulin

When looking for alternative inks, you need to know that the original ink is water-based.
You want to use an ink that is water-based, and uses dye not pigment. In other words, not India ink! That has pigments made of particulates like a paint. That clogs up the wick fibers and the ball and wrecks the pen. You need inks that are purely liquid, which means dyes not pigments.
The simplest way to identify a good ink is to search for water-based drafting/plotter pen ink.

These Koh-I-Noor/Chartpak model numbers are perfect:

3080-F-BLA black

3080-F-BLU blue

3080-F-RED red

3080-F-GRE green

Fill a syringe to about the 20 mark. (0.2ml)

Around the tip of the pen (the new plastic german ones) there are 3 vent holes. Insert the syringe into one of those. Angle towards the center a little to minimize how much the vent passage gets mushed open by the needle.

Slowly, giving the ink time to soak into the fiber filler inside, push the plunger from about 20 to about 10. When you see ink in the other vent holes, you’ve actually gone slightly too far, or too fast.

Put the printer in 80 column mode ( jumper 2 = off ) and LLIST a basic program until the writing looks clean. It may splatter a little at first.

Clean up with a calligraphy pen cleaning solution, like:

http://artid.com/members/calligraphy/blog/post/1529-pen-and-brush-cleaner-recipe

or Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze.

It works to restore old dried pens too if you soak the disassembled parts in a jar for a day or so. Most original (30 year old) pens are not recoverable, but some are.

I have no idea how many times a pen can be refilled before the ball point wears out, but even once is worth it, considering how expensive they are and how quickly they run out. I have only refilled each color about twice so far.

For the original steel barrel pens:
You have to completely disassemble the pens and soak the parts in the cleaning solution for a few hours, or even days.
If the metal ball point still does not roll or flow, try passing the tip into a flame briefly to free up the ball from being stuck. This is just for METAL tips! I don't know if it works by melting the dried ink or by expanding the metal around the ball, but it works. It only takes a brief exposure, less than a second. Just pass it above a flame back and forth once or twice, don't hold it in place. This breaks the ball free and allows the ball to roll again, and the ink to flow again.
You have to inject ink with the pen tip off. You can’t go in through a vent hole like you can for the new plastic pens.
All in all, I’ve generally had less than 50% success rate refilling and reviving old pens. Even after completely disassembling and cleaning all parts and freeing the stuck ball points. But occasionally it does work, and a few pens are better than no pens.

Pen/Ink Storage

Store pens and ink in something that is more vapor-proof than oridinary plastic bags or boxes. You want metal or glass, like glass jars with metal lids or foil bags with actual aluminum foil not merely a silvery appearance.

The plastic ink bottles and pen bodies will lose both alcohol and water right through the plastic over time. If they are stored in ordinary plastic bags or containers, even with seals, the vapor pases right through that plastic over time the same way. So you want to store them inside something that will actually trap the vapor inside over long periods, which slows down the loss of volotiles from the ink. Metal in particular also protects the dye from UV.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L80T2O/

This item comes with dessicant packs. Do NOT include the dessicant packs! The whole point is to keep the moisture trapped IN the bag.

Pics / Video

https://goo.gl/photos/8HNKcnyMKBJupYnq9

Other

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhSUpfQVdWc2VrdTA?resourcekey=0-kYFofyxhQLoKkG_phO0KHg&usp=sharing

M100SIG Archive

TANDY faxback

4000 - Selecting a Printer Cable
4001 - Care and Maintenance
4002 - Using Control Codes From BASIC
5632 - Catalog Listing
5633 - Cables
5634 - Control Codes
5635 - Features
5636 - Paper Loading
5637 - Pen Installation
5638 - Pinouts
5639 - Self-Test
5640 - Dip Switches
5641 - Specifications

CGP-115: Difference between revisions

Latest revision as of 13:39, 18 December 2024

Contents

Manuals

ALPS Plotter Engine

Pens

Gears

Specs

Sources

Paper

Specs

Refilling Pens

Pen/Ink Storage

Pics / Video

Other

M100SIG Archive

TANDY faxback

Navigation menu

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-=Summary=
+[[File:Cgp115.jpg|thumb]]
-ALPS plotter pens, gears, paper
+=Manuals=
-:Brian K. White bw.aljex@gmail.com
+:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115_operation_manual Operation Manual]
+:[https://archive.org/details/cgp-115-service-manual Service Manual]
 =ALPS Plotter Engine=
@@ Line 8: / Line 9: @@
 Plotter Models:
 :'''ALPS DPG-1302'''
+:Aquarius 4-COLOR PRINTER
+:Astron MCP-40X
 :Atari 1020
+<!-- :Brother MCP-40 --> <!-- can't find any pics or docs -->
 :Canon X-710
 :Casio FA-10
+:Casio FA-11
 :Commodore 1520
+:Convergent Microprinter WP-100
 :Mattel Aquarius 4615
-:Oric MCP40
+:MCP-40 ([http://www.pc-1500.info/2014/11/21/frank-c-odds-favorite-printer-sharp-pc-1500/ not the Oric one])
+:Olivetti PL 10
+:Oric MCP-40
 :Sega SP-400
+:Sharp CE-1600P
+:Sharp MZ-1P01
+:Sharp MZ-1P16
+:Sharp PC-2500
 :Silver Reed EB50
 :Tandy CGP-115
 :Texas Instruments HX-1000
+:Vtech Laser PP-40I
-There is another ALPS engine that takes narrower paper, but is otherwise the same, using the same pens and pinion gears.
+There is another version of the same ALPS engine that just takes narrower paper, but is otherwise the same, using the same pens and pinion gears.
 :Sharp CE-150
 :Tandy 26-3605
+:Mitutoyo DP-2
+:Mitutoyo DP-3
+And another version that takes wider paper.
+:Panasonic Penwriter RK-P400
+:Sharp CE-515P
+:Sharp CE-516P
+:Sony PRN-C41
 =Pens=
+[[File:EvidENTpens.jpg|100px|frameless|right]]
-lass-shop.de
+A German medical supplies company is manufacturing new pens designed for this plotter mechanism.
-Search box: "stifte" ("pen" in German)
-http://www.lass-shop.de/epages/63686166.sf/de_DE/?ObjectID=30124112&ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=stifte
-* US 016.01 - 4 black
+They're expensive, especially with the shipping, but, they're new, and you can refill them practically forever for pennies per refill.
-* US 017.01 - 4 color, black blue green red
-Web shop does not handle US shipping address. Order by email to:
+https://www.evident-shop.de/en/search?sSearch=stifte
-:Peter at info@lass-hno.de
-Peter speaks English, you can write the email in English.
-They will make a PayPal invoice / request for payment.<br>
-You have to manually check your PayPal in a desktop browser to see it and pay it.<br>
-Doesn't appear in the Android PayPal app or even in the Android browser, but does appear in FireFox in desktop mode.
 =Gears=
-The pinion/spindle gears on the X and Y motors are made of Nylon, which has shrunk over time, and essentially all of these gears are split by now, or soon will be. There is at least one good working replacement. The new gear is brass instead of nylon, which is not necessarily a great thing, but they are the right dimensions and teeth size and teeth count, modulus, bore hole, etc. It's practically a miracle to find these.
+The pinion/spindle gears on the X and Y motors are made of Nylon, which has shrunk over time, and essentially all of these gears are split by now, or soon will be.
 ===Specs===
 :13 tooth
+:0.25 modulus
 :1.5mm bore
-:0.25 modulus
+:4.5mm length
+These are the specs to re-create the gear from scratch. For example the FreeCAD model below was made by just plugging those values into the involute gear plugin in FreeCAD.
 ===Sources===
+<!--
-WOW! Now you can get brand new gears 3d-printed to order!
 :http://biosrhythm.com/?p=1395
 :http://shpws.me/MmAz
+-->
-Bam! Done!
+The original gears are nylon. You can't get those any more, but you can get two other forms of new gears.
-I have ordered and received a set of these, and they do look and feel good. I haven't installed them in a plotter yet.
+Jeff Birt of the "Hey Birt!" Youtube channel has commissioned some machined brass gears: https://www.soigeneris.com/alps-printer-plotter-mechanism-pinion-gears
+You can also get 3d-printed gears: http://shpws.me/Si9K
-Alternative, these gears are brass, and actually cheaper, but, as best I can tell they are not really in production any more, merely some resellers simply still have stock. I actually got several of these from 2 different resellers for about $1.90 per gear.
+CAD model source for the 3d-printed gears: https://github.com/bkw777/ALPS_plotter_gears
+<!-- historical
 Manufacturer: '''Xtreme Production'''
 :Model: EA-055-13
@@ Line 76: / Line 88: @@
 http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83_216&products_id=6842<br>
 There may be others still out there. Look for r/c hobby shops, particularly ones that sell helecopters, particularly Walkera.
+-->
+To install brass gears, I used a small hobby/electronics table-top vise with plastic jaws (Panavise 301) to press the gears onto the motor shafts without deforming the end of the shaft. The rear end of the shaft is very close to the bearing and so you want to be extra careful to avoid even a tiny impreceptible damage to the shape of the shaft. You can remove a thin metal sheet that covers the motors on the back, and that exposes the motors enough to get the corners of the vise jaws on both ends of the motor shaft without having to remove the motors. The jaws on that model of vise are plastic, so they don't harm the motor shaft on the back of the motors. If you use a steel jaw vice, be sure to protect the rear motor shaft from direct metal to metal contact with the vice jaw, to prevent the vise jaw from deforming the motor shaft.
-I used a small hobbyist table top vise to press the gears onto the motor shafts. Panavise 301, with '''plastic''' jaws. You can remove a thin metal sheet that covers the motors on the back, and that exposes the motors enough to get the corners of the vise jaws on both ends of the motor shaft without having to remove the motors. The jaws on that model are plastic, so they don't harm the motor shaft on the back of the motors. If you use a steel jaw vice, be sure to protect the rear motor shaft from direct metal to metal contact with the vice jaw.
 =Paper=
@@ Line 110: / Line 122: @@
 When looking for alternative inks, you need to know that the original ink is water-based.<br>
-Use water based drafting/plotter pen ink. Example:
+You want to use an ink that is water-based, and uses dye not pigment. In other words, not India ink! That has pigments made of particulates like a paint. That clogs up the wick fibers and the ball and wrecks the pen. You need inks that are purely liquid, which means dyes not pigments.<br>
-:Chartpak/Koh-I-Noor models
+The simplest way to identify a good ink is to search for water-based drafting/plotter pen ink.
-:3080-F-BLA   black
-:3080-F-BLU   blue
-:3080-F-RED   red
-:3080-F-GRE   green
-Clean up with a calligraphy pen cleaning solution, like:
+These Koh-I-Noor/Chartpak model numbers are perfect:
-:http://artid.com/members/calligraphy/blog/post/1529-pen-and-brush-cleaner-recipe
+:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLA 3080-F-BLA]   black
-or Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze.
+:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-BLU 3080-F-BLU]   blue
+:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-RED 3080-F-RED]   red
-It works to clean up old dried pens too if you soak the disassembled parts in a jar for a day or so.
+:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=3080-F-GRE 3080-F-GRE]   green
 Fill a syringe to about the 20 mark. (0.2ml)
@@ Line 130: / Line 138: @@
 Slowly, giving the ink time to soak into the fiber filler inside, push the plunger from about 20 to about 10. When you see ink in the other vent holes, you’ve actually gone slightly too far, or too fast.
-Remove the needle, wipe it down with a damp paper towel and cap it.
+Put the printer in 80 column mode ( jumper 2 = off ) and LLIST a basic program until the writing looks clean. It may splatter a little at first.
-Wipe the pen tip with a dry or slightly damp paper towel to clean the excess ink and wick out a little from the vent holes too.
+Clean up with a calligraphy pen cleaning solution, like:
+:http://artid.com/members/calligraphy/blog/post/1529-pen-and-brush-cleaner-recipe
+or Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze.
-Repeat for all 4 colors.
+It works to restore old dried pens too if you soak the disassembled parts in a jar for a day or so. Most original (30 year old) pens are not recoverable, but some are.
-Put the printer in 80 column mode ( jumper 2 = off ) and LLIST a basic program until the writing looks clean. It may splatter a little at first.
 I have no idea how many times a pen can be refilled before the ball point wears out, but even once is worth it, considering how expensive they are and how quickly they run out. I have only refilled each color about twice so far.
-For the old steel barrel pens:<br>
+For the original steel barrel pens:<br>
-You have to completely disassemble the pens and soak the parts in the cleaning solution for a few hours or days.<br>
+You have to completely disassemble the pens and soak the parts in the cleaning solution for a few hours, or even days.<br>
-You may need to pass the metal ball point tip into a flame briefly, once, to free up the ball from being stuck. I think it melts the dried ink, or maybe it expands the brass nib that holds the steel ball? In any event, I had some pens that no amount of soaking in water, alcohol, ammonia, etc ever freed the ball, but just briefly passing into the blue flame from my stove got the ball rolling and the ink flowing.<br>
+If the metal ball point still does not roll or flow, try passing the tip into a flame briefly to free up the ball from being stuck. This is just for METAL tips! I don't know if it works by melting the dried ink or by expanding the metal around the ball, but it works. It only takes a brief exposure, less than a second. Just pass it above a flame back and forth once or twice, don't hold it in place. This breaks the ball free and allows the ball to roll again, and the ink to flow again.<br>
-You have to inject ink with the pen tip off. You can’t go in through a vent hole like you can for the new all plastic pens.<br>
+You have to inject ink with the pen tip off. You can’t go in through a vent hole like you can for the new plastic pens.<br>
 All in all, I’ve generally had less than 50% success rate refilling and reviving old pens. Even after completely disassembling and cleaning all parts and freeing the stuck ball points. But occasionally it does work, and a few pens are better than no pens.
+=Pen/Ink Storage=
+Store pens and ink in something that is more vapor-proof than oridinary plastic bags or boxes. You want metal or glass, like glass jars with metal lids or foil bags with actual aluminum foil not merely a silvery appearance.
+The plastic ink bottles and pen bodies will lose both alcohol and water right through the plastic over time. If they are stored in ordinary plastic bags or containers, even with seals, the vapor pases right through that plastic over time the same way. So you want to store them inside something that will actually trap the vapor inside over long periods, which slows down the loss of volotiles from the ink. Metal in particular also protects the dye from UV.
+Example:
+https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L80T2O/
+This item comes with dessicant packs. Do '''NOT''' include the dessicant packs! The whole point is to keep the moisture trapped IN the bag.
 =Pics / Video=
@@ Line 150: / Line 168: @@
 https://goo.gl/photos/8HNKcnyMKBJupYnq9
-=Manual, BASIC programs=
+=Other=
+https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhSUpfQVdWc2VrdTA?resourcekey=0-kYFofyxhQLoKkG_phO0KHg&usp=sharing
+==M100SIG Archive==
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/BIORTH.CGP<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-03-TELCOM/RLECGP.115<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/CGP115.THD<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/BCODE2.BAS<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.DOC<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-05-GAMES/WRDSCH.DOC<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-04-APPS/GRAPH.100<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-09-PERIFERALS/TP-10.THD<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.100<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GPRINT.DOC<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-06-GRAPHICS-MUSIC/GRFX.100<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/OLIM10.DIF<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/Lib-07-UTILITIES/PRTCGP.115<br>
+https://github.com/LivingM100SIG/Living_M100SIG/blob/main/M100SIG/LIB-13-REVIEWS/APLOT.115<br>
-https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhSUpfQVdWc2VrdTA
+==TANDY faxback==
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/04000.txt Selecting a Printer Cable<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4000.htm 4000 - Selecting a Printer Cable]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/04001.txt Care and Maintenance<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4001.htm 4001 - Care and Maintenance]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/04002.txt Using Control Codes From BASIC<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc4/4002.htm 4002 - Using Control Codes From BASIC]<br>
+[http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05632.txt 5632 - Catalog Listing]<br>
+<!-- [https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5632.htm 5632 - Catalog Listing]<br> -->
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05633.pdf Cables<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5633.htm 5633 - Cables]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05634.txt Control Codes<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5634.htm 5634 - Control Codes]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05635.txt Features<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5635.htm 5635 - Features]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05636.txt Paper Loading<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5636.htm 5636 - Paper Loading]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05637.txt Pen Installation<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5637.htm 5637 - Pen Installation]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05638.txt Pinouts<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5638.htm 5638 - Pinouts]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05639.txt Self-Test<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5639.htm 5639 - Self-Test]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05640.pdf Dip Switches<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5640.htm 5640 - Dip Switches]<br>
+<!-- http://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/tvdog/tandy1000/faxback/05641.txt Specifications<br> -->
+[https://web.archive.org/web/http://support.tandy.com:80/support_accessories/doc5/5641.htm 5641 - Specifications]<br>