TPDD Rick Shear Cable: Difference between revisions
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To build a cable based on Rick's original pcb, but using all standard parts that you can buy instead of having to find a FB100 cable and destroy it to get the special plug for the TPDD: | To build a cable based on Rick's original pcb, but using all standard parts that you can buy instead of having to find a FB100 cable and destroy it to get the special plug for the TPDD: | ||
:[https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vntX40yC Rick's PCB] | :[https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vntX40yC Rick's original PCB] [[TPDD_BKW_RS_Cable|Refined version of Rick's PCB]] | ||
:[https://www.digikey.com/short/pmb339 Components] | :[https://www.digikey.com/short/pmb339 Components] | ||
Revision as of 20:21, 7 July 2020
Note: There are two better options than this now. This is just for reference.
This is the cable ArcadeShopper currently has for sale.
To build a cable based on Rick's original pcb, but using all standard parts that you can buy instead of having to find a FB100 cable and destroy it to get the special plug for the TPDD:
- The numbers 1-7 on the PCB correspond to the numbers on the TPDD connector in the diagram above. Pin 8 on the TPDD is not used.
- You need a special crimp tool to crimp 28awg dupont style pins. Example: SN-28B Crimp Tool.
- Additional materials:
- 3/16" heat shrink tubing
- 1/2" heat shrink tubing (double wall, 3:1 ratio)
- The pins on the db25 connector above will be too long for the solder pads on the pcb. You will need to cut them appoximately in half. Rick used a connector with solder cups instead of through-hole pins, because the solder cup style is what typically comes with typical back shells. But a standard 1.6mm thick pcb doesn't actually fit in betwen the rows of solder cups.
- The back shell is special. Most back shells don't fit in the opening in a Model 100. The back shell in the digikey cart above does.