Teeprom: Difference between revisions

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PCB: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/XkHpiF2z
Carrier: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3723135
<gallery>
<gallery>
Teeprom_1.png
Teeprom.jpg
Teeprom_2.png
Teeprom_6.jpg
Teeprom_3.png
Teeprom_7.jpg
Teeprom_4.png
Teeprom_8.jpg
Teeprom_9.jpg
Teeprom_10.jpg
</gallery>
</gallery>
[https://photos.app.goo.gl/aicpPgKjzFoJweb8A More Pictures]
== Parts ==
PCB: [https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/U5HvtWjc OSHPark] or [https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Teeprom___Writable_option_rom_for_TRS_80_Model_100__102__200.html PCBWAY]<br>
BOM: https://www.digikey.com/short/pbch8c<br>
Carrier: [http://shpws.me/SGGB Shapeways] or [https://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/molex78802_pcb_28-13/Bw4x3yG6 Sculpteo]


== Programming ==
To write the eeprom, you need:
To write the eeprom, you need:
* programmer such as [http://autoelectric.cn/EN/TL866_main.html TL866]
* Programmer such as [http://autoelectric.cn/EN/TL866_main.html TL866]
* SOIC-28 test clip such as [https://www.pomonaelectronics.com/products/test-clips/soic-clip-28-pin Pomona 5437]
* SOIC-28 test clip such as [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=pomona+5437&ia=web Pomona 5437], [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=&quot;923660-28&quot; AP/3M 923660-28], [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=&quot;923665-28&quot; AP/3M 923665-28]
* [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adam-tech/ICS-328-T/2057-ICS-328-T-ND/9832859 dip-28 socket]
* [https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adam-tech/ICS-328-T/2057-ICS-328-T-ND/9832859 dip-28 socket]
* 28 [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRV92ZB/ jumper wires] with male pins on one end and female sockets on the other end.
* 28 [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRV92ZB/ jumper wires] with male pins on one end and female Dupont style sockets on the other end.
* [[REX|roms]]
* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhU01uYjFYNnpkTmM rom image files]


Put the female ends of the wires onto the test clip.<br>
Put the male ends of the wires into the dip28 socket.<br>
Put the male ends of the wires into the dip28 socket.<br>
Put the female ends of the wires onto the test clip.<br>
Put the dip28 socket into the programmer.<br>
Put the dip28 socket into the zif socket on the programmer.<br>
Remove the Teeprom from the Model 100/102/200<br>
Remove the Teeprom from the Model 100/102/200<br>
Clip the test clip onto the chip on the Teeprom module.
Clip the test clip onto the chip on the Teeprom module.


Similar to [[FigTroniX]], but without the write-enable jumper and special programming adapter.
== 4ROM ==
4-bank module that fits in the socket and holds 4 rom images.
 
https://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom/blob/master/4ROM.md
 
<gallery>
4ROM_10.jpg
4ROM_11.jpg
</gallery>
 
== Sources ==
The PCB is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom<br>
The carrier is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Molex78802_Module
 
If you want to get the carrier printed by another service, get the STL file from the github repo and upload it to any other appropriate service such as [http://www.weerg.com Weerg], [https://craftcloud3d.com/ CraftCloud], etc.
 
It's important to use the appropriate printing technology for this part. Currently the only commonly available / practical printing method that is both accurate enough and produces a functionally strong enough part is [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=SLS+printing SLS]. Print with any other method at your own risk. Some notes about the common options:
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=FDM+printing FDM / Fused Deposition]: Essentially not printable by FDM. I have managed to print this on my own FDM printer (Creality CR-10S). It was just barely accurate enough to fit, but too weak. Broke quickly.
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=SLA+printing SLA / Stereo Lithography]: Prints extremely accurately and would fit perfect, but is too fragile. Might have luck wth one of the fancy new tough resins, but not with standard resin.
:[https://duckduckgo.com/?q=MJF+printing MJF / Multjet Fusion]: Not accurate enough. I tried several times from ShapeWays. Looks almost perfect visually, doesn't fit well enough.
 
Some print services offer extra high resolution options for their SLS printing. Sculpteo offers a 60um option which is about twice as high resolution as normal. This does come out very nice, but isn't necessary. The Standard SLS raw nylon 100-120um from Sculpteo, or the standard/cheapest option from Shapeways, is already perfect.
 
Some print services offer dye and other post-processing options. Be careful with those as they can change the final fit. Raw nylon with or without plain dye coloring finish is always fine. Sculpteo also offers some gloss and paint finishes. I have not tried any of those yet. The added layer of paint may possibly cause a problem.
 
PCB ordering notes<br>
Min Track/Spacing: 6/6mil  - On PCBWAY the ordering page may come up with 5/5 or even 4/4 pre-selected, rasing the cost a lot, but this board does not actually have any such narrow traces or gaps. Just manually switch it to 6/6<br>
Solder Mask: Any, but some colors result in either higher cost or longer wait time. The "yellow" color is not really yellow. It's more like a clear coat that looks orange-yellow just from the copper.<br>
Surface Finish: ENIG<br>

Latest revision as of 14:10, 21 February 2023

More Pictures

Parts

PCB: OSHPark or PCBWAY
BOM: https://www.digikey.com/short/pbch8c
Carrier: Shapeways or Sculpteo

Programming

To write the eeprom, you need:

Put the female ends of the wires onto the test clip.
Put the male ends of the wires into the dip28 socket.
Put the dip28 socket into the programmer.
Remove the Teeprom from the Model 100/102/200
Clip the test clip onto the chip on the Teeprom module.

4ROM

4-bank module that fits in the socket and holds 4 rom images.

https://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom/blob/master/4ROM.md

Sources

The PCB is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Teeprom
The carrier is maintained on github: http://github.com/bkw777/Molex78802_Module

If you want to get the carrier printed by another service, get the STL file from the github repo and upload it to any other appropriate service such as Weerg, CraftCloud, etc.

It's important to use the appropriate printing technology for this part. Currently the only commonly available / practical printing method that is both accurate enough and produces a functionally strong enough part is SLS. Print with any other method at your own risk. Some notes about the common options:

FDM / Fused Deposition: Essentially not printable by FDM. I have managed to print this on my own FDM printer (Creality CR-10S). It was just barely accurate enough to fit, but too weak. Broke quickly.
SLA / Stereo Lithography: Prints extremely accurately and would fit perfect, but is too fragile. Might have luck wth one of the fancy new tough resins, but not with standard resin.
MJF / Multjet Fusion: Not accurate enough. I tried several times from ShapeWays. Looks almost perfect visually, doesn't fit well enough.

Some print services offer extra high resolution options for their SLS printing. Sculpteo offers a 60um option which is about twice as high resolution as normal. This does come out very nice, but isn't necessary. The Standard SLS raw nylon 100-120um from Sculpteo, or the standard/cheapest option from Shapeways, is already perfect.

Some print services offer dye and other post-processing options. Be careful with those as they can change the final fit. Raw nylon with or without plain dye coloring finish is always fine. Sculpteo also offers some gloss and paint finishes. I have not tried any of those yet. The added layer of paint may possibly cause a problem.

PCB ordering notes
Min Track/Spacing: 6/6mil - On PCBWAY the ordering page may come up with 5/5 or even 4/4 pre-selected, rasing the cost a lot, but this board does not actually have any such narrow traces or gaps. Just manually switch it to 6/6
Solder Mask: Any, but some colors result in either higher cost or longer wait time. The "yellow" color is not really yellow. It's more like a clear coat that looks orange-yellow just from the copper.
Surface Finish: ENIG