Building a REX: Difference between revisions

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==Introduction==
<gallery>
Building Steven Adolf's REX from scratch.<br>
REX_Classic_bkw_1.png
Brian K. White - bw.aljex@gmail.com
REX_Classic_bkw_2.png
REX_Classic_bkw_3.png
REX_Classic_bkw_4.png
REX_Classic_bkw_5.png
REX_Classic_bkw_6.png
REX_Classic_bkw_7.png
REX_BKW_C11_8.jpg
REX_BKW_C11_9.jpg
REX_BKW_C11_10.jpg
</gallery>
<!--
rex-bkw-c8-10.jpg
rex-bkw-c8-9.jpg
rex-bkw-c8-6.jpg
rex-bkw-c8-7.jpg
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=Introduction=
Building a REX<br>
 
This is a version of [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REXclassic Steven Adolph's REX Classic] with a modified PCB design.<br>
It is electrically identical to REX Classic, and uses the REX Classic firmware & software.<br>


:[https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhV3NEdjhvWFlYMDg Files Used]
The PCB layout and shape are modified to:
:[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX_Release_4.9 Steven advises to use 4.9 Build 162]
* snap into a 3d-printed carrier to fit the Molex78805 socket
:[https://goo.gl/photos/7wRjuTUDv6cojpjU9 A few pictures from the build process]
* provide connections for power and PORT_EN for programming the CPLD


==Parts/Materials==
'''[[REX:Build_(original_version)|Original version of this page, for building the original REX1]]'''
Bill of Materials. Order each of these.<br>
These are parts to build 3 REX boards. You can't order fewer than 3 PCBs from OSHPark, but if you only want to build one or two boards, you can reduce the quantities of the parts from DigiKey.


<!-- * [https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vFF7oXfw Printed Circuit Board] (Earlier version, possibly usable for NEC?)
[https://github.com/bkw777/REX_Classic PCB Source]<br>
-->
[https://github.com/bkw777/Molex78802_Module Carrier Source]
* [https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/o3YL0OEB Printed Circuit Board]
 
=Parts & Materials=
<!-- ==For Tandy 100/102/200== -->
* PCB: [https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/2aTIo5Fq OSHPark] or [https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/REX_Classic__BKW_re_spin.html PCBWAY] 
* BOM: [https://www.digikey.com/short/tj7bzf3h Digi-Key]
* Carrier: [http://shpws.me/SGNn Shapeways] or [https://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/molex78802_pcb_28-13/Bw4x3yG6 Sculpteo]


* [http://www.digikey.com/short/qtqhcf Electronic Components]
Note if ordering from PCBWAY: On the order page, you may have to manually change "Min tracks/spaces" to "6/6mil"<br>
All tracks & spaces are well over 6 mil (everything is 0.2mm which is almost 8 mil), and that setting drops the price from $50 to $5


<!-- Save this for reference, to add to a separate page later
ENIG adds a lot of cost on PCBWAY and JLCPCB lately.<br>
* [http://www.digikey.com/short/3r1w75 Parts, excluding the flash]<br>
Currently the cheapest way to get an ENIG version for gold contacts (other than OSHPark) is [https://www.elecrow.com/ Elecrow].<br>
:This cart is pre-loaded with quantities to build 3 REX boards.
Upload the gerber zip from the [https://github.com/bkw777/REX_Classic/releases/latest releases], and manually select ENIG and Castellated Holes, and just use the cheapest shipping.


* [https://www.verical.com/s/am29f800bb/ Flash]
<!--
:Order 1 flash chip per REX. (so, 3 chips if you want to build 3 boards)<br>
    The github includes a working re-spin REX Classic for NEC.
:Pick any version of the chip which matches this pattern:<br>
    REX NEC requires a different .jed file for the cpld, which is not publicly available.
:AM29F800BB-##E*<br>
    However, if you have a REX NEC, you can dump a .jed file from it, and use that to program new REX NECs.
:
-->
:Where:
<!--
:<nowiki>## = Speed: 90 or lower (90 or faster)</nowiki>
==For NEC PC-8201/8300==
:<nowiki>E = Package: Must be "E" (TSOP)</nowiki>
* PCB: (see github)
:<nowiki>* = Temperature range: Any</nowiki>
* BOM: Same as above, but add 50 of these legs (you need 28, but 50 costs less than 28): https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1544210-2/A117856CT-ND/4729775 Or these: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mill-max-manufacturing-corp/3121-2-00-15-00-00-08-0/436677
:
* No carrier needed.
:Example (what I got):<br>
:AM29F800BB-70EK
-->
-->
Non-electronic materials:


* [https://www.target.com/p/offray-174-grosgrain-ribbon-3-8-x-21ft-white/-/A-51687907 3/8" wide fabric ribbon] (Target, Walmart, Michaels, etc all have it)
[[REX:flash|Other Compatible Flash Chips and how to identify them]]
* Card stock, such as from a cereal box. 2 pieces 1/2" x 1-1/2" per REX.
* [https://www.target.com/p/scotch-double-sided-tape-1-2in-x-450in/-/A-14045762 1/2" wide permanent double sided tape] (Target, Walmart, Michaels, etc all have it)
:Don't use foam double sided tape, or anything compressible. Use thin tape and a hard spacer material. The tape and the card stock are for building up a couple mm thickness of spacer on the bottom of the REX, to prevent the REX from dropping too deeply into the socket, where the socket pins will snap in over top of the edge of the REX. You specifically want it to be solid material that does not compress.


==Tools==
=Tools=
* Xilinx "Platform USB" programmer.
[[File:DLC9G Clone.jpg|thumb]]
:I used this actual ebay item: http://ebay.com/itm/112073269777
*[https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=xilinx+usb&_sop=15 Xilinx Platform USB programmer]
:
:Cheap Chinese clone is fine.
:But ebay links die after a while, so if/when the link above is dead, just search for "Xilinx Platform USB" on ebay or amazon etc.
:Look at the pictures for ones that say model DLC9G, or DLC9LP. Don't put "DLC9G" or "DLC9LP" in the search, you will only get the overpriced ones.
:There are a lot of overpriced programmers, and I include the official Xilinx ones in that group. There is no reason I can see why a jtag programmer should cost $200.
:Get one that includes a "flying leads" cable, with separate loose individual wires on one end.<br clear=all>
:So, go on ebay and search exactly "xilinx usb", then sort by "price+shipping, lowest first, and filter by buy-it-now.
:Then skip the cables and adapters until you get to the actual programmers. You want one of the kits that has the programmer and several adapter cables, all for about $25.
:Then expand the item pictures and verify that it says DLC9G or DLC9LP, or DLC9. Prefer DLC9G most, then DLC9LP. DLC9 is oldest but would still work fine for this. DLC10 probably works too, if you feel like spending the money.
:Don't search for DLC9G or DLC9LP directly by name, you will only get the overpriced ones. Search "xilinx usb" and then look at the pics.


* "Modern" pc to run the Xilinx ISE software to run the programmer, and the also to run a TPDD server to server complete the programming process and get software onto the M100.
[[File:Usb-ttl-cable.jpg|thumb]]
:Modern, only in comparison to the Model 100. I used a 12 year old laptop about equivalent to a $200 netbook, running a current Ubuntu 16.04. Point being it is possible to do the job with very little, ie a netbook, even one running linux instead of windows or osx. It did require several gigs of hd space for the Xilinx software though, and that was for the stripped down "LabTools" package, not even the full ISE. But the OS and all software are free. Getting the LabTools software installed and working, and getting the special usb drivers working DID require some non-trivial futzing around. But I described all that [[https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhVFBQSW1pclpjaWM Here]] if you want to use Linux.
*[https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=usb+ttl+cable&_sop=15 5v power source with dupont sockets]
:A cheap usb-ttl cable is perfect. It's cheap, and already ends in loose wires with female dupont pins.
:Just use the red and black wires and ignore the rest.<br clear=all>


*Sandpaper medium grit (120 or so), and a cutting board or other hard flat surface to lay the sandpaper on.
*PC with at least one usb port, and a COM port or usb-serial adapter.
:This is just to clean up and smooth the edges of the PCB a little.
 
*Sandpaper, medium grit (120 or so), and a hard flat surface like a cutting board.


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/391332/12_Watt_Miniature_Corded_Soldering_Iron Soldering Iron]
*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/391332/12_Watt_Miniature_Corded_Soldering_Iron Soldering Iron]
:Do not necessarily need anything fancy. I actually used this exact one.
:Do not necessarily need anything fancy. I actually used this exact one to build a few REXs, although now I use a Hakko FX-888D with a T18-C2 tip.


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/448396/No-Clean_Flux_Core_Solder_Sn63-Pb37_-_2_Ounce_Spool Solder, fine pitch, 63/37, no-clean flux or rosin core]
*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/448396/No-Clean_Flux_Core_Solder_Sn63-Pb37_-_2_Ounce_Spool Solder, fine pitch, 63/37, no-clean flux]


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/444655/SRA_No-Clean_312_Flux_Pens No-Clean Flux]
*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/444655/SRA_No-Clean_312_Flux_Pens No-Clean Flux]


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/436735/PV_Jr_Mini_Vise Mini Vice]
*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/436735/PV_Jr_Mini_Vise Mini Vise]


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/458849/Three_Lens_Multi-Magnifier Magnifying Glasses]
*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/458849/Three_Lens_Multi-Magnifier Magnifying Glasses]
:Or the strongest reading glasses you can get at the local Walgreens, maybe add a headband led light.
:Or the strongest reading glasses you can get at a local drug store. 3.00x or higher.


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/451968/Technical_Grade_Isopropyl_Alcohol_999_-_32oz Alcohol for cleaning up]
*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/451968/Technical_Grade_Isopropyl_Alcohol_999_-_32oz 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol]
:Don't really need this. The flux above can be left on, or cleaned with warm water.


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/411268/Ultra_Fine_Point_Slanted_Tweezers__-_Black Tweezers]
*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/411268/Ultra_Fine_Point_Slanted_Tweezers__-_Black Tweezers]


What am I forgetting...
[[File:1x6 1x4 shunt.jpg|thumb]]
*[https://www.digikey.com/short/pb0wvj Pin Headers and Shunt]
:0.1" (2.54mm) pitch single row male pin header
:1x6
:1x4
:one shunt
<br clear=all>
 
*A Tandy Model 100, 102, or 200.
 
*A [[Model_100_102_200_600_Serial_Cable|9F-25M-Null-Modem Serial Cable]]
 
*Optional but recommended: [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JXQ9P5/ Ultrasonic Cleaner] and [https://www.sra-solder.com/sra-trupower-35-circuit-board-ultrasonic-cleaning-solution-1-quart saponifying PCB cleaning solution] and distilled or deionized water.
 
=Software=
*Xilinx ISE 14.7 Lab Tools
:Lab Tools is a subset of ISE. You can use either ISE or Lab Tools, but you only need Lab Tools to program the REX.
:This software is old and needs special futzing to make it work, no matter what OS you are using.
:[https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhVFBQSW1pclpjaWM Installing on Ubuntu Linux]
:[https://www.micro-nova.com/xilinx-ise-win10 Installing on Windows].


*[http://ebay.com/itm/262802420892 Test Hook] (to clip onto the jtag vcc pin)
*A [[TPDD_client]] to run on the M100
:There are several tpdd clients, and several ways to get one installed. These are a few options:
::For Mac, Linux, FreeBSD, any other unix: Get [http://gitlab.com/bkw777/dl2 dl2] and use the bootstrap option to install TEENY.100 or any of the other options listed by "$ dl -l"
::For Windows: Get [http://gitlab.com/bkw777/tsend tsend.ps1] and use it to install TEENY.100 or any of the clients found at https://github.com/bkw777/dl2/tree/master/clients
::Play [[File:DOS100.CO.MP3]] into the cassette port to install TS-DOS. (SOUND OFF:CLEAR 0,57089:RUNM "CAS:DOS100.CO")
::Get a real tpdd and bootstrap it's utility disk to install "Floppy".


*Piece of wire to go from the test hook to R3 while flashing the CPLD.
*A [[TPDD_server]] to run on a modern host machine
:For Mac, Linux, FreeBSD, any unix: [http://gitlab.com/bkw777/dl2 dl2]
:For Windows: [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=LaddieCon#LaddieAlpha LaddieAlpha]
<!--
  This is all still true, but most people will not have any problem. It depends on how slow the host machine is, and most are fast enough.
  So it's not worth cluttering up and complicating the directions which are already complicated enough.
  The bug is definitely in the RF#49.CO util rather than in the other tpdd emulators, because for one thing, RF*49.CO does not work with an *actual TPDD drive*.
  This also only started with build 254. Build 162 works fine.
*[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=LaddieCon#LaddieAlpha LaddieAlpha]
:The rex firmware updater needs a TPDD server.
:dl2 and mComm above are both tpdd servers, which come with tpdd client installers, and previously you used to be able to just use one of those packages for everything.
:But there is a bug in the latest REX build 254 files, such that it only works (reliably) with LaddieAlpha as the TPDD server.
:But LaddieAlpha does not come with any dos installer.
:So, right now it's a bit inconvenient. You have to get one of the above packages just to use it's dos installer, and then you have to get LaddieAlpha also, and use it for the rest of the rex setup process.
-->


*[http://www.microcenter.com/product/426789/10_01_40_Single_Row_Headers Single-Row pin header]
*[http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?action=downloadfile&filename=rex_0110_April24%202011_no%20RST.jed&directory=Steve%20Adolph/REX/info& REX1 CPLD Jedec file]
:Just a little 6 pin section snapped off of one stick. The rest are not needed, but you almost can't buy them in any smaller quantity.


Later, you also need
*[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX REX1 firmware]
:Start there, and follow the links to whatever is the latest "REX Release x.x Rebuild Package" zip file.


*A Model 100, 102, or 200. To provide +5vdc power to pins 1 & 14 to program the Xilinx, and also to flash the REX manager software.
=Procedure=
==Prep the Bare PCB==
Lay a piece of medium grit (100-200) sandpaper face up on a hard flat surface like a cutting board.


*Monoprice 479 cable, for connecting the M100 to the modern pc to complete the software load. If you get exactly this cable, then you do not need any other gender-changer or null-modem adapters between the Model 100 and the modern pc's 9-pin com port or usb-serial adapter.
Sand the edges of the PCB on the sandpaper just enough to clean off the panelization break-away points.


*Very likely need a usb-serial adapter too, since no modern pc has a serial port. Anything will do. Even the cheapest junkiest Prolific-based cable is good enough, and has the right 9 pin connector the match the cable above.
[[File:Castellation flags.jpg|thumb]]
Use magnification to look closely at the castellated edge contacts for copper or gold "flags" hanging on the edge of most contacts. Scrape them off with an xacto knife.<br clear=all>


==Assembly==
==Solder the Electronic Components==
===Shape the PCB===
[[File:Soldered top.jpg|thumb]]
Place a sheet of medium grit sand paper on a cutting board and sand the long edges of the pcb down until the holes are about half gone. Use the white marker lines in the corners. Sand until the edge of the board is almost to the lines, but the lines are still there.
[[File:Soldered bottom.jpg|thumb]]
Solder these parts onto the matching labeled locations on the pcb.


===Electronic Components===
:U1 = XCR3064XL
Install these parts:
:U2 = 29F800
:29F800 (on the back side)
:U3 = LP2980-3.3
:XCR3064XL
:R1 = 10K
:LP2980
:C1 = 1uF
:R1 = 0 ohm
:TP1 & TP2 = right-angle pin (optional)
:R3 = 10K ohm
:C4 = 1.0 uF


All other locations left empty.
Don't be too intimidated by the tiny legs on that TSOP-48 chip.<br>
Just use magnifying glasses, lots of flux, and the [https://youtu.be/erb6-i54tbo DRAG TECHNIQUE].<br>
Another example: https://youtu.be/09qb0KY_IF4


Simple [http://youtu.be/zqo3VEBNOkc Drag Technique] to solder the chips with an ordinary solder pen and flux. No fancy professional soldering station needed.
The TP1 and TP2 pins are only needed if you think you will ever perform the hardware modification required to use the [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_ROM_Management_Feature main rom management feature]. See [[FlexROM_100]] or [[FlexROM_102]] to facilitate this.
<br clear=all>
<!--
===NEC===
For the NEC version, do the DIP legs the same way as [[FlexROM_100]].
:Cut 2 strips of 14 pins each
:Cut the top (larger end) off of all the pins using ordinary scissors, leaving a simple "comb" of pins.
:Insert the "comb" into the top of the pcb and poke the legs down through about 1/2 way. The frame holding all the pins together should be on the top side of the pcb, 2-3mm above the pcb. The legs sticking out the bottom of the pcb should be 4 to 6 mm long.
:Adjust the leg on one end of the row and solder that leg.
:Adjust the leg on the opposite end of the row so the row is even, and solder that leg.
:Solder all remaining legs.
:Examine the legs for excess solder on the bottom of the pcb and along the length of the legs. If there is any solder built up on the legs, use flux and solder wick to remove it.
:When you are sure the legs are all good, use flush cutters and cut the top of each leg off flush with the top of the pcb.
[[File:FlexROM_100-12.jpg|thumb]]


Orientation of the chips:
<br clear=all>
:[[file:rex_chips_orientation.jpg|320px]][[file:rex_chips_orientation_zoom.jpg|320px]]
-->


===Spacer & Extractor===
==Clean the Finished PCB==
:1/2" double sided tape
Even "No-Clean" flux should still be removed as much as possible after soldering.
:Cereal box
:3/8" Ribbon


Apply double sided tape to bottom of REX (The side with only the flash chip and no writing).
The best is to use an ultrasonic cleaner and saponifying pcb cleaning solution.


Cut a length of about 2 1/2" of ribbon, and melt the cut edges with the soldering pen to keep them from fraying. Stick the rex to the center of the ribbon, aligned lengthwise.
If you don't have that, then at least make sure your flux and solder are both "no-clean", and then use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a brush. This will still leave flux trapped under the chips no matter how much you soak it or wash it, but for no-clean flux it's not ideal but ok.


Turn the REX over and add another piece of double sided tape on top of the ribbon.
==Program the CPLD==
Now we need to flash the CPLD (Xilinx) with the '''.jed''' file. This configures the blank CPLD into a functional circuit that actually does something.


Cut a piece of cereal box about 1/2" x 1-1/4", and stick that to the tape.
*Get the '''.jed''' file from [http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?&direction=0&order=&directory=Steve%20Adolph/REX/info here].
 
*Connect the jtag, 5vdc, and PORT_EN jumper.
<gallery>
Rex xilinx programmer.jpg
Usb-ttl-cable.jpg
Rex all cpld conn.jpg
Rex jtag.jpg
Rex power port en.jpg
Rex cpld prg connected.jpg
</gallery>
 
*[https://docs.google.com/document/d/10KIFE5Zo7FUw-gWCkEibTjgq-EmEbtgugif0lVh8Q2I/edit?usp=sharing Use iMPACT to program the .jed file]
 
==Snap the PCB Into the Carrier==
<gallery>
REX_and_carrier.jpg
REX_in_carrier.jpg
</gallery>


==Flash the Firmware==
==Flash the Firmware==
There are two things to flash;<br>
Follow the REX 4.9 update directions to load the firmware onto the REX.<br>
* The .jed, which configures the blank CPLD into a functional circuit or device. You must flash the .jed first.
The original directions for that are here: [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX_Release_4.9 4.9 update directions].
* The firmware, which gets written to the flash memory, which includes an option-rom image loaded in one of the 32k blocks of flash, which in turn contains REXMGR.
 
Here are explicit/literal example directions to do that using [https://github.com/bkw777/dl2 dl2] on a Mac, Linux, FreeBSD, or other unix pc.<br>
 
(For Windows: instead of dl2,
:Download & unzip the various files manually with a browser instead of cutting & pasting the wget & unzip commands.
:use [https://github.com/bkw777/tsend tsend.ps1] for the bootstrap in place of "dl -v -b FILE.100"
:use [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=LaddieCon#LaddieAlpha LaddieAlpha] for the TPDD server in place of "dl -v -u")
 
Back up any files off of M100. M100 will be wiped.
 
Cold reset the M100  (ctrl+pause+reset)
 
Power off the M100
 
Install the REX in the M100's Option ROM socket
 
Connect the [[Model_T_Serial_Cable|serial cable]] between M100 and PC


Update 2017/10/20: The latest advice from Steven Adolf via the m100 mail list, is to use build 162 of the REX files, not higher.
Power on the M100


===.jed===
'''Install dl2 on a PC:'''<br>
 
On the PC, in a terminal window.
* Install LabTools 14.7 from Xilinx
$ git clone git@github.com:bkw777/dl2.git
:https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bys6eLbSbYyhVFBQSW1pclpjaWM
$ cd dl2
$ make all && sudo make install


* Supply +5vdc to pin 1 of the board edge, and gnd to pin 14.
'''Install TEENY onto the M100:'''<br>
:The simplest way to do this is just pop the REX into a Model 100 (or 102, or 200) with new batteries or a wall plug, turn it on, go into BASIC and issue a "POWER CONT" command. This has a good chance to scramble the ram in the M100, so back up any files you want on the M100 first.
On the PC:
:Another option is just take any 5v phone charger, cut off the usb plug, cut off 3 inches of the outer insulation so you have 2 separate wires, strip 1/4" of insulation off of those, and use rubber bands wrapped around the REX to hold the red wire on pin 1 and black or bare on pin 14.
  $ dl -vb TEENY.100


* Hook up the "platform usb" programmer to the jtag pins with the short section of single row pin header.
Follow the prompts on the PC and on the M100 screen...
:(The staggered/offset holes makes tension on the straight row of pins, which holds them in place and makes a solid contact without any fancy spring loaded sockets or clips.)
:[[file:rex_jtag_pins.png]][[file:rex_programmer_hookup.jpg|320px]]


* Temporarily pull PORT_EN high on the CPLD (the Xilinx chip) by temporarily jumping from the jtag vcc pin to R3, on the side closest to the center of the board. (Be careful and get this right. The other side of R3 is GND. If you short vcc to gnd you may burn out the LP2980 3.3vdc regulator on the REX.) Just clip a test clip to the jtag vcc pin and manually hold the other end touching the side of R3 for the few seconds it takes iMPACT to program.
On the M100:
:[[file:rex_port_en.jpg|320px]][[file:rex_port_en_zoom.jpg|320px]]
:BASIC
RUN "COM:98N1ENN"


* While holding the PORT_EN jumper/probe in place, use iMPACT to program the .jed file.
On the PC:
:[[file:rex_jed_before.png|320px]][[file:rex_jed_after.png|320px]]
:Enter
:wait...


==firmware==
On the M100:
Follow the directions for the 4.9 update.<br>
:Enter
This happens to also serve as a way to do a first-time flash of the firmware and REXMGR software.
NEW
?HIMEM:CALL9643
:Look at the <code>Top: #####</code> number.
:A 32k machine should say 62213.
:Yours may say something else.
: Use that number in the following CLEAR command.
CLEAR 0,62213
MENU


[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX_Release_4.9 4.9 update directions] The latest advice from Steven Adolf is to use the Build 162 files, not higher.
On the PC:
:Enter
:should be back at a shell prompt now


<!--
<!--
[http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?&direction=0&order=&directory=Steve%20Adolph/REX%204.9%20Beta 4.9 update files]
There is a timing/race-condition bug in the TPDD routines in the REX flasher util, in versions after 4.9 build 162, whereby it doesn't work reliably with all TPDD emulators on all host machines. In fact, it also does not work with a real TPDD drive.
 
Steve has admitted that he only tests against LaddieAlpha himself, and so that is the only TPDD server that is garanteed to work (or rather, it's the only one he's likely to care about any bug reports). This is unfortunate, because for instance it complcates bootstrapping directions like these, because LaddieAlpha does not include any DOS bootstrapper. So you have to use dl2 or mComm to get TEENY or TS-DOS installed, and then use LaddieAlpha just for RF*49.CO
 
MOST of the time, any TPDD server will actually work fine as long as the host machine isn't slow. But I have an old pentium-m laptop runing ubuntu 18.04 that would not work with anything but LaddieAlpha. dl2 actually worked fine for everything else, it's only RF149.CO that didn't work, and only versions after build 162.
 
So, for simplicity I'll use dl2 in the visible directions below, but for reference, here are directions to use LaddieAlpha for this stage.
 
$ mkdir LaddieAlpha
$ cd LaddieAlpha
$ sudo apt install mono-complete
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/files/linux/LaddieAlpha.EXE
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/3/38/R49_M100T102_260_rebuild.zip
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/6/63/M100_OPTION_ROMS.zip
$ unzip R49_M100T102_260_rebuild.zip
$ unzip M100_OPTION_ROMS.zip
$ mono ./LaddieAlpha.EXE /dev/ttyUSB0 6
-->
 
'''Download the REX Classic setup files'''
$ mkdir rex_setup
$ cd rex_setup
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/3/38/R49_M100T102_260_rebuild.zip
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/6/63/M100_OPTION_ROMS.zip
$ unzip R49_M100T102_260_rebuild.zip
$ unzip M100_OPTION_ROMS.zip
 
'''Use dl2 to start a TPDD server'''
$ dl -vu
 
'''Copy RF149.CO to the M100, then run it.'''<br>
On the M100:
:should be at menu
:TEENY.CO
> L RF149.CO
> Q
:should be at menu
:BASIC
CLEAR 0,55000
MENU
:should be at menu
:run RF149.CO
:Answer Y
:Wait...
:should be at menu
 
'''Reset the M100 to clear out TEENY and RF149.CO'''
:ctrl+pause+reset
:should be at menu, ram wiped
 
The flash memory on the REX is now formatted and loaded with REXMGR and a TS-DOS option rom image.
 
'''Install REXMGR from the REX itself'''
:BASIC
CALL 63012
 
:should be at menu, REXMGR should appear in menu
 
REX is now ready to use, and empty except for TS-DOS.
 
'''Now install an option ROM image. Example: Ultimate Rom II'''
:REXMGR
:press TAB once
:screen should say "TS-DOS* ------"
:press right-arrow once, highlight should move to "------"
:press F2
Loading from image filename: UR2100
Hit any key when TPDD ready.
Loading 0:UR2100.BX    ####
:now it should say "TS-DOS* UR2100 ------"
 
UR2 is now loaded into REX, but not currently selected/active, TS-DOS is.<br>
What this means is, If you were to go back to BASIC and run <code>CALL 63012</code> right now, it would load TS-DOS, as if you had a TS-DOS option rom in the option rom socket.<br>
To run UR2, you have to select it in REXMGR first.
 
:right-arrow to highlight UR2100
:press enter
:Y
 
UR2 is now the active option rom image. Additionally, the equivalent of <code>CALL 63012</code> was already done for you by REXMGR just as a convenience to skip a step.
 
F8 back to menu.
 
Leave dl2 running on PC while you load more rom images.
 
Ctrl+C to exit dl2 when you're done with it.
 
=Done!=
That was the last step. You're done! Consult the [http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Special%3ASearch&search=rex&fulltext=Search REX docs] to start using it!
 
=Main ROM Management=
[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_ROM_Management_Feature Main ROM Management]
*For 100, see [[FlexROM_100]]
*For 102, see [[FlexROM_102]]
*For 200, no FlexROM for 200 yet. See the regular REX docs.
<!--
*For NEC, you can use FlexROM_102 in NEC, but there is almost no reason to. The main advantage to FlexROM is the ability to deactivate/re-activate an internal main rom without taking the computer apart. In the NEC, the main rom socket is accessible, so you can just pop the standard main rom back in any time you need to.
-->
-->
TODO: This step needs you to run a tpdd server on a modern machine and install a dos on the M100. Should walk through the process of using teeny and dlplus.


==References==
=References=
[https://github.com/bkw777/REX_Classic KiCAD source files for the PCB]
 
[https://github.com/bkw777/Molex78802_Module OpenSCAD source files for the carrier]
 
[https://photos.app.goo.gl/aNfjvB1XucSehPGB9 Version c6 pcb] This version of the pcb is obsolete, but has pics of the firmware flashing process.
 
[https://photos.app.goo.gl/EzncfFFAvmRmq5Mt6 Version c8 pcb] This version is also now obsolete, but the only difference is the pcb dimensions and matching carrier.


[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX User Manual]
[http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=REX User Manual]


[http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?PHPSESSID=0iltg2un40287et7flm4m54387&direction=0&order=&directory=Steve%20Adolph Sources and support files]
[http://www.club100.org/memfiles/index.php?PHPSESSID=0iltg2un40287et7flm4m54387&direction=0&order=&directory=Steve%20Adolph Original sources and support files from Steven Adolph]


[https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vFF7oXfw PCB]
[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bys6eLbSbYyhV3NEdjhvWFlYMDg?resourcekey=0-MKkAnbTYHoSeNHfjYqjsIQ&usp=sharing Backup copies of some of the sources and support files]

Latest revision as of 03:24, 13 November 2023

Introduction

Building a REX

This is a version of Steven Adolph's REX Classic with a modified PCB design.
It is electrically identical to REX Classic, and uses the REX Classic firmware & software.

The PCB layout and shape are modified to:

  • snap into a 3d-printed carrier to fit the Molex78805 socket
  • provide connections for power and PORT_EN for programming the CPLD

Original version of this page, for building the original REX1

PCB Source
Carrier Source

Parts & Materials

Note if ordering from PCBWAY: On the order page, you may have to manually change "Min tracks/spaces" to "6/6mil"
All tracks & spaces are well over 6 mil (everything is 0.2mm which is almost 8 mil), and that setting drops the price from $50 to $5

ENIG adds a lot of cost on PCBWAY and JLCPCB lately.
Currently the cheapest way to get an ENIG version for gold contacts (other than OSHPark) is Elecrow.
Upload the gerber zip from the releases, and manually select ENIG and Castellated Holes, and just use the cheapest shipping.


Other Compatible Flash Chips and how to identify them

Tools

Cheap Chinese clone is fine.
Look at the pictures for ones that say model DLC9G, or DLC9LP. Don't put "DLC9G" or "DLC9LP" in the search, you will only get the overpriced ones.
Get one that includes a "flying leads" cable, with separate loose individual wires on one end.
A cheap usb-ttl cable is perfect. It's cheap, and already ends in loose wires with female dupont pins.
Just use the red and black wires and ignore the rest.
  • PC with at least one usb port, and a COM port or usb-serial adapter.
  • Sandpaper, medium grit (120 or so), and a hard flat surface like a cutting board.
Do not necessarily need anything fancy. I actually used this exact one to build a few REXs, although now I use a Hakko FX-888D with a T18-C2 tip.
Or the strongest reading glasses you can get at a local drug store. 3.00x or higher.
0.1" (2.54mm) pitch single row male pin header
1x6
1x4
one shunt


  • A Tandy Model 100, 102, or 200.

Software

  • Xilinx ISE 14.7 Lab Tools
Lab Tools is a subset of ISE. You can use either ISE or Lab Tools, but you only need Lab Tools to program the REX.
This software is old and needs special futzing to make it work, no matter what OS you are using.
Installing on Ubuntu Linux
Installing on Windows.
There are several tpdd clients, and several ways to get one installed. These are a few options:
For Mac, Linux, FreeBSD, any other unix: Get dl2 and use the bootstrap option to install TEENY.100 or any of the other options listed by "$ dl -l"
For Windows: Get tsend.ps1 and use it to install TEENY.100 or any of the clients found at https://github.com/bkw777/dl2/tree/master/clients
Play File:DOS100.CO.MP3 into the cassette port to install TS-DOS. (SOUND OFF:CLEAR 0,57089:RUNM "CAS:DOS100.CO")
Get a real tpdd and bootstrap it's utility disk to install "Floppy".
For Mac, Linux, FreeBSD, any unix: dl2
For Windows: LaddieAlpha
Start there, and follow the links to whatever is the latest "REX Release x.x Rebuild Package" zip file.

Procedure

Prep the Bare PCB

Lay a piece of medium grit (100-200) sandpaper face up on a hard flat surface like a cutting board.

Sand the edges of the PCB on the sandpaper just enough to clean off the panelization break-away points.

Use magnification to look closely at the castellated edge contacts for copper or gold "flags" hanging on the edge of most contacts. Scrape them off with an xacto knife.

Solder the Electronic Components

Solder these parts onto the matching labeled locations on the pcb.

U1 = XCR3064XL
U2 = 29F800
U3 = LP2980-3.3
R1 = 10K
C1 = 1uF
TP1 & TP2 = right-angle pin (optional)

Don't be too intimidated by the tiny legs on that TSOP-48 chip.
Just use magnifying glasses, lots of flux, and the DRAG TECHNIQUE.
Another example: https://youtu.be/09qb0KY_IF4

The TP1 and TP2 pins are only needed if you think you will ever perform the hardware modification required to use the main rom management feature. See FlexROM_100 or FlexROM_102 to facilitate this.

Clean the Finished PCB

Even "No-Clean" flux should still be removed as much as possible after soldering.

The best is to use an ultrasonic cleaner and saponifying pcb cleaning solution.

If you don't have that, then at least make sure your flux and solder are both "no-clean", and then use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a brush. This will still leave flux trapped under the chips no matter how much you soak it or wash it, but for no-clean flux it's not ideal but ok.

Program the CPLD

Now we need to flash the CPLD (Xilinx) with the .jed file. This configures the blank CPLD into a functional circuit that actually does something.

  • Get the .jed file from here.
  • Connect the jtag, 5vdc, and PORT_EN jumper.

Snap the PCB Into the Carrier

Flash the Firmware

Follow the REX 4.9 update directions to load the firmware onto the REX.
The original directions for that are here: 4.9 update directions.

Here are explicit/literal example directions to do that using dl2 on a Mac, Linux, FreeBSD, or other unix pc.

(For Windows: instead of dl2,

Download & unzip the various files manually with a browser instead of cutting & pasting the wget & unzip commands.
use tsend.ps1 for the bootstrap in place of "dl -v -b FILE.100"
use LaddieAlpha for the TPDD server in place of "dl -v -u")

Back up any files off of M100. M100 will be wiped.

Cold reset the M100 (ctrl+pause+reset)

Power off the M100

Install the REX in the M100's Option ROM socket

Connect the serial cable between M100 and PC

Power on the M100

Install dl2 on a PC:
On the PC, in a terminal window.

$ git clone git@github.com:bkw777/dl2.git
$ cd dl2
$ make all && sudo make install

Install TEENY onto the M100:
On the PC:

$ dl -vb TEENY.100

Follow the prompts on the PC and on the M100 screen...

On the M100:

BASIC
RUN "COM:98N1ENN"

On the PC:

Enter
wait...

On the M100:

Enter
NEW
?HIMEM:CALL9643
Look at the Top: ##### number.
A 32k machine should say 62213.
Yours may say something else.
Use that number in the following CLEAR command.
CLEAR 0,62213
MENU

On the PC:

Enter
should be back at a shell prompt now


Download the REX Classic setup files

$ mkdir rex_setup
$ cd rex_setup
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/3/38/R49_M100T102_260_rebuild.zip
$ wget http://bitchin100.com/wiki/images/6/63/M100_OPTION_ROMS.zip
$ unzip R49_M100T102_260_rebuild.zip
$ unzip M100_OPTION_ROMS.zip

Use dl2 to start a TPDD server

$ dl -vu

Copy RF149.CO to the M100, then run it.
On the M100:

should be at menu
TEENY.CO
> L RF149.CO
> Q
should be at menu
BASIC
CLEAR 0,55000
MENU
should be at menu
run RF149.CO
Answer Y
Wait...
should be at menu

Reset the M100 to clear out TEENY and RF149.CO

ctrl+pause+reset
should be at menu, ram wiped

The flash memory on the REX is now formatted and loaded with REXMGR and a TS-DOS option rom image.

Install REXMGR from the REX itself

BASIC
CALL 63012
should be at menu, REXMGR should appear in menu

REX is now ready to use, and empty except for TS-DOS.

Now install an option ROM image. Example: Ultimate Rom II

REXMGR
press TAB once
screen should say "TS-DOS* ------"
press right-arrow once, highlight should move to "------"
press F2
Loading from image filename: UR2100
Hit any key when TPDD ready.
Loading 0:UR2100.BX     ####
now it should say "TS-DOS* UR2100 ------"

UR2 is now loaded into REX, but not currently selected/active, TS-DOS is.
What this means is, If you were to go back to BASIC and run CALL 63012 right now, it would load TS-DOS, as if you had a TS-DOS option rom in the option rom socket.
To run UR2, you have to select it in REXMGR first.

right-arrow to highlight UR2100
press enter
Y

UR2 is now the active option rom image. Additionally, the equivalent of CALL 63012 was already done for you by REXMGR just as a convenience to skip a step.

F8 back to menu.

Leave dl2 running on PC while you load more rom images.

Ctrl+C to exit dl2 when you're done with it.

Done!

That was the last step. You're done! Consult the REX docs to start using it!

Main ROM Management

Main ROM Management

References

KiCAD source files for the PCB

OpenSCAD source files for the carrier

Version c6 pcb This version of the pcb is obsolete, but has pics of the firmware flashing process.

Version c8 pcb This version is also now obsolete, but the only difference is the pcb dimensions and matching carrier.

User Manual

Original sources and support files from Steven Adolph

Backup copies of some of the sources and support files